Learn to Knit a Log Cabin Blanket


In this tutorial weíre going to learn to
make this Log Cabin blanket, hereís a little more of it. Log Cabin is a traditional quilting technique
thatís been adapted over the years to both knitting and crocheting. Weíre going to learn
how to make this knit blanket. And for this we have a pattern you can follow
along with. Itís available for free over on my website
verypink.com, or you can follow the link I put in the video description below. Now before we get started, there are three
things that I want to talk about with this blanket. Um, first up is the size. And Iím giving you instructions for, very
specifically, a 47 inch by 63 inch blanket. But itís very easy to adapt by adding more
quilt blocks, or even adjusting the size of the quilt blocks, which look like this. Um, and Iíve made this, Iíve designed this
pattern to use up leftover bits of yarn from other projects. You can plan out one of these blankets. It
looks really cool when the colors are carefully planned. I really just used leftover bits that I had
from other projects. So thatís about the size. For the yarn choices, Iím going to recommend
that you use, that you stick with one fiber type. If you want to make an animal fiber, mostly
wool, for example, stick with that. You can also use cotton or other plant fibers,
or an acrylic blanket. I will tell you this ñ youíll have the best
luck with this blanket if you use animal fibers. Now if you donít have any, donít worry about
it. But if you have, if you make any kind of tension
mistake with this. Like you have a bind off thatís too tight or stitches that are a little
bit loose. Animal fibers are going to be really forgiving
when you block them out, and youíll still end up with nice, right angles. Which is what this blanketís all about. Also, as far as your leftover bits of yarn
go, Iím talking about not very much yarn at all! [laughs] This is ten yards of yarn, which is enough
to work the shortest strip in the quilt block. And this is 30 yards of yarn, just to give
you an idea. And this is enough to work the longest strip in the quilt block. So you can measure it out to make sure you
have enough for any given strip, but um, just for an idea, this is ten and this is 30. The last thing I want to mention before we
get into the technique are colors. And like I said, you can carefully plan the
colors for this blanket, or you can just use the leftover bits of yarn that you have. I did not pay very much attention to what
the colors were doing when I put this blanket together. I did pay attention to a couple of things. I made sure that no single block was dominated
by one color. I have a lot of green leftovers. I could have
made this whole blanket with different colors of green! [laughs] But I wanted to shake it up, so I paid attention
to that. I also made sure that no single block was
really dark or really light. So I tried to mix that up. And I kept really uncomplimentary colors from
being next to each other in a block. I did use colors that didnít really match
in a single block, they just didnít touch each other. So those are some things to think about. Go
ahead and get your free pattern over on my website. And first up weíre going to get started with
the center square. Weíre ready to get started with our first
quilt block. And something that I forgot to mention in
the intro is that for all of you purl stitch haters ñ there is not a single purl stitch
in this whole blanket. It is 100 percent knit stitch. You know who you are! [laughs] Youíre going
to like that part of this project! Letís go ahead and take a look at the construction
of this. Here is a finished quilt block. And this is
unblocked, so itís a little lumpy and bumpy. We start with this center square here. Cast on 20 stitches, knit for 20 ridges. And weíll talk about that a little bit. Then you bind off and you knit this strip. You bind off, and then you knit this strip. You bind off, this is four ñ uh, this is
three. Four, five, six, seven, and eight. And itís all clear in the pattern. If this is confusing now, donít worry. Itís just a matter of turning the work counter
clockwise every time you bind off. To knit the next strip, and itís just kind
of all laid out in front of you. So the first thing we do is we cast on 20
stitches and knit for 20 ridges. This is a bulky sample, this is much bigger
square than I got when I used worsted weight yarn. This is just for example. Letís talk first about what is right side,
and what is wrong side. Because right and wrong side becomes really
clear after youíre finished with your center square and your first strip. But with the just the center square knit,
Iíll show you how I determine what is right and wrong side. This is my cast on row here. And this is what I consider the right side. Itís a nice, twill edge to the cast on row. And I did the long tail cast on, and my working
yarn ñ uh, my tail end ends up over here on the left side. The wrong side of the cast on looks like purl
bumps. So what I did ñ the reason thatís important
is because I bound off on the right side. So I cast on, I knit for 20 ridges. Now when weíre talking about garter stitch,
itís easy to see how many rows you have because you can just count these ridges. And each ridge is actually two rows, down
and back. If you pull them apart, they look like purl
bumps, but if you pull them apart, there is a knit stitch between there. So it ends up actually being 40 rows, 20 ridges. And then I bound off. And throughout this pattern, the bind off
ñ I want you to do a regular bind off, nothing fancy. And Iíll give you a link in the pattern to
what a regular bind off is, in case you need it. Regular bind off is stiff, and itís going
to provide stability throughout the pattern so itís not just a big stretchy piece of
garter stitch. So a regular bind off, we bind off all the
way off, and we leave the last loop. Normally when we bind off, you would pull
that last loop through and fasten it off. Nope, we need to leave that live. And then you bind off, you turn your work
counter clockwise so that your loop is over here on the right side. And this is where weíre going to pick up
and knit. Got my needles here. And I have the next color of yarn that I want
to use, all ready to go. So weíre going to pick up stitches between
the ridges. And weíre going to pick up 20 stitches here. I have this loop in the old color left on
the needle. And if you look between the ridges, this is
actually between the bind off row and the first ridge, there is a place where the needle
just wants to really easily go. And when you put your needle in there, youíll
have two strands up on the needle. Iím going to take my next color of yarn,
and leaving like a six inch tail, Iím just going to make a loop, and put that over the
needle, and pull it through. And then Iíll separate my working yarn from
my tail end. And then again between the ridges, kind of
up almost into the next ridge, there is a hole there that makes it so easy to pick up
a stitch. So I put my needle in there, wrap the needle,
lots of tension on the working yarn here. Whoops, I just lost it. Pull that through, and then loosen that stitch
up a bit if you pulled the working yarn really tight. So right in there. And if you are worried about whether you are
picking up a stitch in the right spot, it doesnít really make that much difference. As long as you are consistent across the whole
row, it will look good. Whoops. Youíre going to have to bear with me here. Okay that should be 19. For the very last one I pick up, I want to
pick ñ well, let me double check. Nope, that was one too many. My last stitch, you would assume, would go
right here. But I want to pick it up as close to the edge
as possible. This would be picking it up as Iíve done
on all of these. Iím going to skip that little spot and really
kind of go into the upper knot. And the reason I do that is to even out this
edge with the next bit of knitting. I donít want there to be a jog there, so
I try to get things as close to the edge as possible. And now I have 21 inches. 21 inches! 21 STITCHES
on the needle. Because I have this one in the other color,
and I picked up 20. Now Iím going to turn the work, and just
knit across. No purling! And the bit that you just picked up, the wrong
side row after the first bit that you pick up is always the stiffest row to knit. It gets easier from here. Get all the way down to the last two stitches,
one of those stitches will be in the new color, one in the old color. And knit those two together. So I picked up 20 stitches, and now I have
20 stitches on the needle. Now we left these two ends loose. Weíre going to get to that here. Turn your work again, and this is how I do,
how I finish up attaching my new color. I knit across a few stitches. And the reason I knit across a few is so that
thereís enough on this right needle so that it doesnít fall out. You can see here, I have some of the tan showing
from that loop, and this is just all kind of loose and ridiculous looking. Iím going to take those two ends and pull
them. Especially pulling on the tan one. Donít be shy about pulling hard. Pull it until you donít see any more tan
in there, and the stitches look even. Then, I tie a knot with the two ends. Like so. And thatís not going anywhere. When I go back to weave in the ends, this
knot will be nice, it wonít cause any problems. Now, um, hereís the right side of the work.
Hereís the wrong side of the work. I want to show you ñ I think this is really
pretty. Even without the ends woven in yet. If you are consistent with where you pick
things up, you end up with what looks really nice and neat on the wrong side of the work. It also becomes really obvious to see what
is the wrong side of the work, because all of the ridges are on the back, and the front
is very smooth. Next up weíre going to take about picking
up the second strip. Now Iím going to show you how to pick up
the second strip. Youíve done the center square and one strip,
weíre going to pick up the second strip. And after you get this technique down, youíre
good for the rest of the blanket! Thereís nothing else for me to show you other
than seaming the pieces, the quilt blocks, together. So letís take a look at this. Thereís my center square, thereís my first
strip. And again with this first strip, I picked
up the stitches, and we covered all that in the last one, and then you just count the
ridges. And I did ten ridges and bound off on the
right side of the work. Thereís the wrong side with the, um, the
ridge on the back. So weíre ready to pick up for the second
strip. Bind off, turn it counter clockwise, and weíre
ready to go this way. So the things that different about this one,
and itís the only other technique that you really need to know, is that weíre going
to picking up between garter stitch ridges and on a cast on edge. Which is the same as a bind off edge. Thatís the, um, the only thing you need to
know about picking up stitches is that itís not all between ridges. For different blocks we have different edges
to pick up from, this one happens to be a cast on edge. So letís get started. Again, Iíve left the last stitch from the
first strip, Iím going to put my needle in just like I did when we picked up for that
first strip. Leave myself about a six inch tail, make a
loop, wrap that around the needle, lots of tension on the working yarn, pull that through. And I will pick up ten along this edge, which
will give me 11 on the needle, because Iíve left that first red stitch. Okay. 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 11. There are 11 on the needle now because I picked
up ten. Now weíre ready to start picking up in the
cast on edge. And Iíll tell you, um, there are just enough
stitches to pick up. But this very first one in tan, I always have
a really difficult time picking it up. So I pick up the first that I see, or here
in red, from the first strip. Now what Iím picking up are two legs, Iím
going under two legs of the V. Wrap it and pull it through. Now I just did that because itís much easier
to pick up than this first tan one. So now going across this tan ridge, Iím going
to put my needle under, as I said, both legs of the V. Wrap it and pull it through just like you
did with the garter stitch ridges. And thatís it. Its going to be the same all the way across,
itís going to be the same for all of the ridges, or all of the strips. So I picked up between the ridges here, and
I picked up from the cast on edge of the second, of the center square here. Iím going to do the same thing I did on the
first strip for this strip. Iíll pick the stitches up, knit back, and
when I get to the last two stitches, Iíll knit them together. Iíll make sure and pull them tightly to make
any trace of the red disappear from this cream color strip. And knit for ten ridges and bind off. And
then again turn it counter clockwise. And I make it really clear in the pattern
just where you are and where to go after you finish a strip, where your next strip will
appear. It becomes habit and it gets to be pretty
easy the more quilt blocks that you do. Okay, next up we are going to talk about steaming
the finished blocks, figuring out placement, and knitting the borders on the blocks. Now that you know all of the techniques you
need to knit the blanket, letís talk about the bigger picture of putting the whole thing
together. I knit up a whole bunch of quilt blocks before
I took the next step to go on and start weaving in ends and thinking about placement and knitting
the borders on this. First letís talk about steaming out the blocks. We are here on my blocking board. You donít have to have a blocking board.
You can use an ironing board or whatever else, whatever surface you have thatís not going
to burn or melt with the iron. And um, the blocking board is nice and ironing
boards are nice because you can pin into them. With these blocks that I did, it just so happens
that they block out to 13 inches square. And so every time I knit one ñ I love it
when things end up with perfect right angles and everything looks really good. I spent a lot of time steaming before this
blanket was finished. And so I blocked the, whoops, not quite 13
inches square. So I would pin it out like this, really making
sure that my right angles were looking nice and nothing was stretching. And um, see what Iím doing here? This piece is unblocked and I donít have
an iron here, but the way that I would do it is turn the iron on, and since Iím using
wool, I can use the highest heat setting, the highest steam setting. Set it on steam and without pressing down,
just steam all over just hitting the steam button and having the steam spray out. And then with wool, I was able to pat it the
way that I want it to be to make sure that itís perfect and straight. And Iíll tell you, after I did even just
the center square, I would block, I would steam this out to be a perfect square before
I started knitting on it. I tell you, Iím a fiend about right angles.
[laughs] So I was really careful to make sure that
everything was square throughout the whole thing. Also, steaming it will give you an idea if
things are going well. For example, if youíre really watching your
work and making sure that things look good, youíll be able to tell right away, for example,
if one of your bind off edges is too tight. Then you can go right back and fix that before
you go on with your work. And thatís, steaming is actually a way to
make sure that your work is looking good. Now, next up weíre going to talk about placing
the blocks. And for the blanket, for the 70 ñ sorry.
For the 47 by 63 inch blanket, I have 12 blocks total. And I made this so I can show you how Iíve
worked the placement on these. I have colored in the longest strip, strip
number 8, on each one of these little blocks to make it clear. Now, instead of arranging them all facing
the same direction. You see how I have the colored strip over
there on the left side? I decided to kind of make the eye dance around
a little bit, and not see that much pattern. So I twisted them a quarter turn. Going across like this and down. You see how I did that? And then when I did that I would just make
sure that I didnít have, you know, red next to red or white next to white. And so I actually set all of this out on my
bed to make sure that I liked how it looked before I started knitting borders. Because you do need to know how you want it
set out before you start knitting borders. And Iíll tell you the reason for that. We want all of the spaces between the quilt
blocks to be exactly ten ridges. And I wanted it set up so that the seam would
run exactly between those ten ridges. So for example, when I knit the border on
this square up here, I did five ridges one side, ten ridges on this side, ten ridges
on this side, and five ridges on this side. So it would fit together with the rest of
the blanket. And to do that, I needed to know this would
be my upper left blanket. And letís take a look at the piece I have
here. This might make it more clear. This is actually the bottom leftÖis it? Yes,
itís the bottom left piece. Iím still working on that blanket. I still
have three more blocks to go. And this needs to be blocked but you can see
here that I have five ridges here, five ridges here. Because itís going to fit up in this corner
here. So itís five ridges, five ridges, ten ridges,
ten ridges. And thatís what Iíve got going here. Ten
ridges, ten ridges. Once you know where theyíre placed, you know
how many ridges to put on each side. And for another example, here is the piece
Iím currently working on. This is the center bottom piece. So that itís five ridges here, five ridges
here, five ridges here, which Iím still knitting, and ten ridges here. And once I figure out where something is going
to be placed, I take a little clippie marker and mark the side that needs ten ridges. So I donít forget when Iím watching a movie
in my knitting chair. And the borders are knit just like every other
strip. You leave an extra stitch, you knit your ridges, you bind off turn it a quarter
turn, and thatís whatís going to give you the edges. Now, I used scrap yarn for everything, and
I bought this yarn. And I ended up using, for this size blanket,
about 900 yards. The details will all be in the pattern. But Iíll tell you. As cool as black looks,
it made seaming really difficult. [laughs] If I were to make another one of these, I
would probably pick like a tweedy brown or something instead of this black. I had to sit under a bright light to be able
to see what I was doing when I was seaming these pieces together. Anyway, itís all spelled out in the pattern,
but thatís the idea you want for figuring out how to place these and knitting the borders
on each block. And next up, weíre going to talk about weaving
in the ends on the back of the work. Yes, with this blanket youíre going to have
a lot of ends to weave in. Hopefully you donít hate it! But usually I find that when I teach someone
the really correct way of weaving in ends, they end up disliking it less. I donít mind doing it. I think itís pretty fun. Letís take a look. Here is a finished quilt block with none of
the ends woven in. [laughs] And for those of you who hate weaving in ends,
this probably looks like a nightmare. Itís not. And Iím going to demonstrate how to do it
on this bulky piece here. Now if you know how to weave in ends already,
weaving in in garter stitch is very much like weaving in ends in reverse stockinette, on
the back of stockinette work. Iím taking my tapestry needle, Iím threading
this on there, and Iím going to go under this ridge. Because I want to weave in the red end in
the red area. Okay. Now if you look at the work, you will
see what I call umbrellas and smiles, umbrellas and smiles. And this like I said, this is just like weaving
in ends in reverse stockinette, but if you pull it apart youíll see that there are knit
stitches between the ridges. Weíre going to pretend that this is reverse
stockinette, and there are no knit stitches between the ridges. Weíre going to treat it that same way. So I want you to come up, Iím going to come
up picking up a smile and picking up a smile. To get myself away from the very edge of the
work. Okay. Now Iím going to travel to the right here. Just to the right of where I came out, there
is an umbrella. Iím going to follow the umbrella around,
and go down into the smile next to it. Angle my needle to the left, and go down into
the umbrella. I went through a smile and through an umbrella. There, pull that through. Traveling to the right, right next to where
I came out, there is a smile. Itís hard to see, because itís folded up
under. Thereís a smile. Iím going to go up into the umbrella, right
next to the smile, angle my needle to the left, and go up into that smile. Pull that through. Thereís an umbrella, go down into that smile,
angle to the left, go down into that umbrella, pull that through. Itís like youíre making a figure 8. And if you need a really slow review of this
where Iím using contrasting colors, Iíll give you a link here to my video on weaving
in ends, as well. I usually just weave in just a few times like
that. I guess I wove it in maybe six times, and
then cut the end short. And I donít have to worry about that going
anywhere, because I did tie a nice knot right here. So it was really just a matter of hiding the
end. You can see ñ you can barely tell that thereís
anything different going on here than the rest of the piece. And thatís the way we want it to work. We
want tidy work on the back. Next up the last bit, we are going to talk
about seaming the pieces together. Once you get some blocks finished itís time
to start seaming them together. Youíll knit the quilt block, figure out where
you want it, knit the borders, and before I forget to tell you this, the easiest way
to seam these is to seam a strip, seam them in strips and then seam the strips together. Trying to seam them together on different
sides at the same time makes it really awkward to fit the pieces together. So maybe youíll three of these done, and
seam them together, and then knit other projects wait until you get more leftover yarn together,
and then knit up some more. The seaming for this is just basic mattress
stitch, but there is a little twist because sometimes weíre seaming garter stitch ridges. Most of the time weíre seaming bind off row
to bind off row, which is easy. But sometimes garter stitch ridges are in
there, so I want to show you how to cover that. Letís take a look. These are my bulky samples. Obviously these are not finished blocks ready
to be seamed together. And Iím going to use a contrasting color
so you can see what Iím doing. First I want to show you how to seam bind
off to bind off. And actually, I had it the wrong way. This is bind off to bind off. Pull that. Okay. I will poke through the very edge here with
my tapestry needle. Pull that through, leaving myself a tail to
weave in, and go through that same hole again. This is how youíll always start a block. Then jump over to the other piece, and go
into the very bottom corner there. Okay now we have the two pieces attached together. Now with the bind off rows, you see itís
a series of Vs, all the way up. And right below the V going this way, is a
V going this way. Itís a knit stitch, tucked down in there. Put your needle behind both legs of that V
and pull it through. You always stay on this side of the work,
youíre never poking straight through to the back.
Jump over to the other piece, and pick up the first two legs of the V that you see,
just below the bind off row, over here. Iím not pulling anything tight yet, if you
notice. Iím going to go into the same hole that I
came out of, pick up the two Vs over here, go into the same hole I came out of, pick
up the two Vs over here. Go into the same hole, two Vs ñ two LEGS
of the V, I mean. You see how easy this part is? And the reason I leave it loose ñ there are
two reasons I leave it loose. One is it makes it easy to see where I came
out of last time, to pick up the two legs of the V on each side. And the other ñ I like to leave it a little
bit so that I can have what I always call the ìmagic momentî. I love this. When you pull it together and it looks so
awesome! [laughs] You canít even see the white colored yarn,
can you? It just looks so good! Now I actually need to take this out so I
can show you how to seam bind off row to garter ridges. Which you never have to do very much of, but
it does happen. Okay. So Iím going to get it started the same way. Going through twice over here, jumping over
here, and going through the very edge there. Now, doing the mattress stitch on this side
is just the same. Iíll pick up two legs of the V just under
the bind off row. Then Iíll jump over here. Iím also going to pick up two things, two
legs over here. One of them is kind of hidden between the
ridge, and one of them is the ridge. Iíll show you that again. Go into the same hole I came out of and pick
up two. Go into the same hole I came out of, pick
up what was between the ridge, and the ridge. This, um, the thing is ñ youíll go into
the same hole, and youíll pull your needle up, and youíll come up with something that
is kind of behind, and then the ridge, you see, is there in front. I would say the most important thing, if youíre
having a difficult time finding what Iím talking about. The most important thing is to make sure that
you are working, whatever youíre picking up is a straight line. And youíre not dipping into the work and
coming back out, because keep your edges from being straight. Magic Moment! And that looks really good. I can even pull that a little tighter. And thatís how youíre going to seam the
pieces together. Again, the free pattern is available over
on my website, verypink.com. Good luck. [music]

99 thoughts on “Learn to Knit a Log Cabin Blanket

  • So impressed… been knitting for oh so many years, but still found little trickbits… thank you love Ellen

  • Very very good vdo for knitting tutorial. I don't like it but I love it. Thank you very much for your sharing.

  • Hi again Staci I'm currently working on the log cabin blanket and I'm using 4-ply worsted weight yarn what size knitting needles would you suggest to use for that weight of yarn

  • so the problem i have is i did my 20 ridges. but when i bind off my bo is on the wrong side, not the right. so do i bo after 39 rows to make the bo on the right hand side?

  • So, I checked out the blog post, and you recommend 4.5 mm needles for worsted weight yarn. What if I doubled up the worsted weight yarn? What needles would I use?

  • I just started knitting like yesterday and I'm in the process of making a quilt and I'm hoping I am able to do this as a next project because it really is pretty cool

  • I made this for my brother in 2015 for Christmas. It is huge over 6' tall and over 5' wide. He is over 6' he called it a man size blanket. I worked on it throughout 2015 starting February 2015 & finishing December 2015. His reaction was totally worth the time & money it took to make it. I spent between $150-$200 for the yarn.

  • Hello Stacy I'm knitting this wonderful pattern of yours and I would like to ask after stripe 8 the first border section would have to pick up 61stiches and 71 sts for the next two and so on? Thank you!!!

  • could you make a video on how to knit the Knit Ten Stitch Zig Zag PLEASE!!!!? I'm confused on joining the zig zags.. PLEASE HELP.

  • I weave in ends as I knit, which is a blessing. I hate weaving. for the projects that this technique is impossible for, I use a crochet hook, tricked my mind into thinking it's less tedious… I know, crazy lol

  • would a slip stitch edge work? i find it easier to pick up from a slipped edge than through the garter bumps.

  • why do u need the mattress stitch? I thought they were connected by a black border. which i dont see how to do on the video

  • Should I steam block the squares before knitting the borders or after knitting the borders? Please let me know.

  • Hallo, i am from Austria and I like your blanket. Two years ago i made it for my daughter and now i make the second one for my son. And i am sure this is not the last one. I think it is awesome that you show us how to make this beautyful things. Thank you!

  • How important is the needle size? I have only a couple of different needles available to me right now and one is way too big (10mm) and the other s about 1 mm smaller than what the pattern recommends. Will that change the look at all, will it affect the knitting itself too drastically?

  • I think this is a good tutorial. I want to try it. I like that this is strictly knit. I tend to have trouble picking up stitches and also seaming. Your explanations for both are the best I have seen. I am going to try it.

  • You say to rotate counter clockwise, but you are turning it to the right (which is clockwise) in the video.

  • I've been working on this blanket for over three years. Finally I'm almost finished! Thank you for the vid, I had to come back to it a few times to refresh my memory 🙂

  • Do you have a blank template for the squares to arrange them in the order that we want to sew them together? Kind of like the blank coloring sheets on some of the other patterns?

  • Thanks for pattern. I use this. Can not put there a picture but is nice. Thanks again. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10155634533807236&l=fad30603a0

  • Thanks so much! I made one with just the first 5 steps so they were smaller patches but it turned out good ll the same, i'm planning on giving it a border just around the outside instead of in between the panels because i liked it looking tighter instead of individual blocks. Is there a way i can send you a picture of the finished product?

    Again, thanks for the video, very helpful ^-^

  • This is great as I wanted to do a blanket but didn't want to do plain squares and I love the Log Cabin design. Thank you very much, you have made my day!

  • I want to use your style but in crochet TSS. How many tows should I make for each added on block to make the same size square?

  • For the second strip, is it really necessary to turn the strip counter-clockwise? I might have been mistaken, but I think the video shows you turning clockwise.

  • Thank you for this video. It’s very clear and comprehensive. The only thing I have done differently is to cast on that first centre block using a crochet cast on. This gives a chained edge that looks identical to the bind off edge and makes it very easy to pick up stitches from.

  • Your technique saved a "too short" hat I made yesterday for my daughter. Now it covers her ears with a new length!

  • Well done on the video! The instructions are clear, and the different sections/segments worked really well in breaking the project down so it doesn't seem so overwhelming! I'm working on a version of this blanket, and while it's not exactly the same, the concept is thus this video helps a lot in bringing that all together. In addition, the bit on how to do the mattress stitch will be helpful in future projects I work on. I seem to have to watch videos each time I do it but I'm thinking your explanation in this video will carry over better (for some reason… don't ask me why. Lol). Glad I found this video as it has helped me to figure out what to do with my insane amount of stash yarn! 😉 I think this will be a perfect design for a blanket I want to knit my son. (I want both of my kids to have a knitted blanket from me so they have something that I touched and thought of them while working on… that they will have long after I'm gone.)

  • Many thanks for a clear video explaining all the concepts, and for dividing the video into manageable parts. It really took the 'overwhelm' out of the project. Thank you for the free pattern also. You are a wonderful teacher, and your camera work and editing only add to all that. Thank you so very much.

  • I like the look of this blanket.
    I was wondering if you have any advice on the the double ten stitch blanket, in specifically the part to add a second colour as in not understanding the pattern with the that part

  • I’m just curious, could you add a stitch to slip it, so it looks more neat? Or would it leave a gap when making the new stitches to start the strips?

  • Hello Stacey! A while back, I have knitted the sweater you are wearing in the intro of this video. However, I cannot find it anymore. Could you please tell me where to find it. Best regards from Canada

  • Thank you Stacey! I have made this sweater a few years ago, and since this design is a loose fit, I have made a large, which is way to big for me, and so I never wore it. I will undo the sweater, wash the yarn, and reknit the whole thing. I will also enlarge the front band, so that I can find a grosgrain ribbon in the proper color for my sweater. Thnak you so much for having taken the time to answer me. Really appreciated!!!

  • Thanks for a great pattern and tutorial…can't wait to get started. Working a slip stitch at the beginning of each row would prevent having to seam garter bumps…..

  • Thank you for the great tut and pattern but the other videos to finish the blanket are nowhere to be found (videos 4, 5 and 6)

  • Can't see seaming process due to your subtitle tag . It's hide seaming process. Please clear you video and upload again .

  • Great tutorial. One thing I noticed is that you kept saying "counter clockwise" when, in fact, the turn was clockwise. Am I correct in presuming that won't make a difference?

  • Question: can the log cabin blanket be done with size 10 straight knitting needles? And if so, I would like to start as soon as possible. I thank you in advance for your response.

  • Thank you for this tutorial.I just wanted to ask a question, the part 6:48 sec into the demonstration. It looks like you turned the square clockwise but you you say to turn it counter clockwise. Wanted to clarify if you meant clockwise or counter clockwise?

  • There is a gap between my strips. What am I doing that causes this? The wrong side of the work looks the same as yours.

  • Hello. I'm a very newbie to knitting. I have been crocheting for some years. I want to make this blanket as a gift for my grandmother. I dont know how to make the ridges. Do you have any videos about that?

  • It’s a great idea to knit a blanket and send it to Australia. We are 5 days into 2020 and half of the country is burning down. Half a billion animals have tragically died, and blankets are being accepted for the animals that barely managed to escape but got sent to veterinary centres.

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