Knitting Tutorial – Tesserino Cowl

In this tutorial, we’re going to learn to
make the cowl that I am wearing right now. It’s called Tesserino Cowl and the design
is by Marie Chiba. And this tutorial is brought to us by Louet, because this cowl was designed
using their GEMS Worsted yarns. This is really nice yarn for a cowl like this. I’m pretty
sure you could grab any two colors of the colors they offer, and it would make a beautiful
cowl since this uses two colors. Its 100% Morino Wool. It is a dream to work with, it’s
machine washable and the thing that makes it really good for knitting like this, where
you’re using two different colors, you want the colors to be clear and the colors to pop,
and this yarn has really tightly twisted plies, so there is no kind of muddiness with the
colors. All the colors really pop and stand out. Anyway, again this is GEMS Morino and I will
of course give you a link in the video description field below. And you can also click the “I”
in the upper right-hand corner. That will take you to my website where you can click
through to Louet and take a look at all of the beautiful colors of the GEMS yarn. This
is also a free pattern and the link to get your free pattern to follow along in the video,
will also be in those two places. The skill level for this is surprisingly easy. It looks
like a Fair Isle Cowl, but it’s actually not. It’s call mosaic knitting and it’s done using
slip stitches. You only have one color going per round at a time. It looks like you have
two, but you don’t. It’s deceivingly simple. So, if you can knit and purl and you’re confident
with those two things and your tension is nice, you can handle this. I’m going to show
you how to do the rest. You can impress all your friends with your knitting skills. Anyway,
go ahead and click through to my website and get your free pattern and your yarn, and we
will get started with the cast on next. If you have your yarn and your free pattern,
we are ready to get started on this cowl. Something I didn’t mention in the last segment
is that this cowl if offered in two different sizes. The size that I was wearing in the
first segment is the larger of the two sizes. And I was wearing it in a way so you could
really see the pattern, but it’s actually long enough to wrap twice around my neck,
so that it’s really warm and full and a nice size. And the smaller of the two is about
half that size. I think it’s about half that size, I’ll have to check the cast on numbers.
Anyway, the yarn amounts for each size are really clear. Again, just click the little
“I” in the upper right-hand corner to go to my website for all of that information on
the Louet yarn and the Tesserino pattern. But we’re going to get started with the cast
on and taking a look at how to work this pattern. But first I want to give you a close up of
the cowl itself. So let’s go ahead and take a look. Here is the cowl pattern, I love the
way this looks. And it looks hard to do and it’s really not, and I’m excited to show you
how deceivingly simple this pattern is to work. I chose kind of subdued colors. I’m guessing
that this is going to look really different and really very cool in brighter colors. I’m
excited to see how it all comes out. The two different colors you’re using, one is named
the main color, the other’s named the contrasting color. Whatever you choose for the main color
will end up being your garter stitch border. But you can see both colors are equally prominent
when it actually comes to the design. So picking your main color will really just set whichever
color you want for the top and bottom border. But we are going to get started with the cast
on here. And I’m going to use much smaller needles and fewer stitches for demonstration
purposes. You are going to want to use 24 inch circulars. And I’m just using 16 here,
so it all fits nicely on camera. Now you want to cast on…you’re going to have to cast
on a lot stitches, so I’m going to show you a couple of tricks that I always employ when
I need to cast on a lot of stitches. And the first one will help you make sure that you
have enough yarn for the long tail cast on. You don’t want to cast on 90 stitches and
run out of yarn before you get to the number you need. So, this is how to make sure you
have enough. Leave yourself about a six inch tail, and start wrapping the needle and counting.
And usually what I will do, is count up to 25, mark that spot, and then hat’s enough
yarn for casting on 25 stitches. So if I double it, that’s enough yarn for 50, 75, 100, however
much you need for the cast on number and then mark that spot and put your slipknot there. So you know you have enough yarn, and you
can start casting on. And the other trick I do when I’m casting on a bunch of stitches,
is to count in my head. And usually if I’m listening to an audio book or a podcast, I
will pause it while I count. And I’ll usually count up to 50, double-check to make sure
it’s 50, and then take a stitch marker and pop it on the needle and never count those
stitches again. And then go to the next 50. Double-check to make sure it’s 50, put a stitch
marker on there, never count those again and keep going. And that keeps you from having
to start all the way over at the beginning, to count all the stitches each time when you’re
starting to get close to your target number. Anyway, I have a piece with the cast on already
finished here. And so I want to talk to you about joining in the round. Just in case that’s
something you haven’t done before. Again, my cast on is far fewer stitches than you
will need for this cowl, but it’s good for demonstration. The first thing you want to
go is set it out on a table and take a look, because you want to straighten everything
out. And what I’m going to do is line it up so that all the knots, the knots from the
cast on, are on the inside. And that requires some untwisting here. So when I look at this now, I can see the
knots are all on the inside of the circulars here. And that means it’s not twisted and
I’m ready to join in the round. Then scoot everything closer to the tips of the needles.
I have my working yarn over here, on the right side. I’ll pick this up, put a stitch marker
on the right needle, and then just start knitting. And there are things you can do to join in
the round to make sure you have an even join. And I have a video called Three Ways To Join
In The Round, and I’ll give you a link to that here on-screen. Really, I like to just start knitting. In
the last segment, I’ll show you how to use this tail end to make a really even join.
My preferred method is to not use any of those techniques and just start knitting. You can
certainly do those techniques to join in the round. So we’re joined in the round and we’re
ready to go, and we’re working a garter stitch border, and because we’re knitting in a tube,
because we’re knitting in the round, garter stitch is knit a row, purl a row. If this
has never occurred to you before, I know it blows a lot of peoples’ minds, but garter
stitch when you’re knitting a flat piece, is knit every row. But it’s knit a round,
purl a round when you’re working in the round like this. Your pattern will be very clear about what
you have to do. The next piece here I’m going to show you how to work the slip stitch pattern.
I have the garter stitch border finished and I have a little bit of the pattern finished
here. I’m going to jump right in the middle of the pattern because most of the rows are
the same. So I’m going to give you an example of what most of the rows are like and then
what I think 5, 6, 11, 12 are a little bit different, so I want to show you how those
are. I’m set up here to work round four. I keep saying row, these are actually rounds. Round four is knit two, slip one, knit five,
slip one, knit one. And it’s in the main color, which is my border color, so it’s the lighter
color. I’ve already knit one stitch to keep my stitch marker in place. So I’m going to
knit two, the next bit is slip one. So I’m going to put my needle in as if to purl and
slide that stitch from the left needle to the right. Knit five, slip one, knit one. So with main color, and there’s an asterisk,
knit two, slip one, knit five, slip one, knit one. Repeat from the asterisk to the end.
So we just keep repeating this little bit all the way around. So knit two, slip one,
knit five, slip one, knit 1. I’m actually going to go all the way around so I can show
you the next row as well. Knit two, slip one, knit five, slip one, knit one. Something else you’ll notice in the pattern,
we have rounds one and two, three and four, five and six. So every round there are pairs
of rounds here, which makes it easier to remember what you’re doing. Knit two, slip one, knit
five, slip one, knit one, knit two, knit five, slip one, knit one. I’m going kind of fast
because I do want to get to the end of this round without boring you too much. The main
thing here is to keep the pattern in your head and always slip as if to purl. Okay, I finished that round because I’m back
to my stitch marker. And now I’m going to switch to CC, the contrasting color, on row
five. It’s a really good idea to use a row counter with this to either do tally marks
or use a row counter so you know what row you’re on. Slip two, knit seven, slip one.
And that’s the entire pattern repeat right there. So switching to the other color…and all
I’ve done is I have both colors going here. The other color was just hanging out there
in the back. I’m just going to grab it and start using it now. In this pattern, you don’t
have to do anything special with wrapping the yarns in the back of the work or anything,
you can just leave it hanging there because it never has to travel very far, because it’s
only two rows each color. So where am I? Slip two, so I’m going to put my needle through
two stitches as if to purl and slide them over. Knit seven, slip one and then slip two. This is the technique I want to show you.
Because on the last row, we were only slipping one stitch at a time. So we had the yarn over
here, we were only slipping one stitch. The float, behind the work, the distance that
this yarn had to go was only one stitch. But now since we have three stitches slipped,
this is a longer distance for that to go. This is actually a Fair Isle technique that
I’m showing you here, because I’m ready to knit seven, and I want to be careful with
the tension here. It’s not a difficult technique, but it’s something
you definitely want to keep in mind. If I just knit the next stitch, you can see the
float on the back of the work is jamming those stitches together. And my work is going to
just look tight. So instead, what I’m going to do, is I’m going to take these stitches
on the right-hand needle and stretch them out, so that this yarn has a further distance
to travel to knit that stitch. And so I can be sure that float is long enough and it’s
not going to scrunch those stitches together. So I knit seven, and I slip one and then two,
which is essentially slipping three. And again, I just did the technique. It’s so automatic
for me. I’m ready to knit this next stitch and I’ve slipped three, so I’m going to stretch
out the stitches on the right-hand needle, and then knit my seven, to make sure that
I leave myself a nice long float in the back. Okay, the last thing I want to show you, because
it’s the same thing over and over again, the thing you want to be the most careful with
is keeping track of your rounds and that’s easy to do. But there’s one trick here, one
other trick here I want to show you. And that is working lifelines. I’m going to grab a yarn in a different color
here and my tapestry needle. This is a proactive lifeline is what I like to call them. I’m
taking a lighter weight of yarn, and this is something I’m going to put into my work.
And usually I’ll want to do it after row 12, just so I know where I am, so that if I mess
up, I can take my needles out and unravel to this spot. What I’m going to do is just
move my work to the cord, and take my tapestry needle and this lighter weight yarn, and just
pull it through all the stitches as they are on the needle, or on the cord. It’s easier
to string the tapestry needle through the stitches on the cord. So I do that all the way around, and then
just continue working as I was, leaving this in place. Then if you mess up, you can take
your needles out and unravel, and all your stitches will be safely held here. You’ll
see even if you take the needle out, those stitches can’t unravel because this yarn is
holding them in place. Just a little trick you might want to do if you’re nervous about
starting a pattern that you can move forward confidently once you put a lifeline in, because
you know if you mess up, it’s only going to be that far. And you can string a lifeline
as often as you like, every 12 rounds if you like. Anyway, you’re going to keep knitting
the pattern like this, as many repeats as a pattern tells you, or as you’d like to work.
And then your going to work the garter stitch border. Next up, we’re going to talk about
some finishing work and blocking. Once you’ve finished knitting the entire cowl,
we’re ready to do some finishing work, well, sort of finishing work. The first thing I
usually like to do, is to block it before I weave in the ends, just to make sure that
it has reached it’s maximum size before I weave in the ends. Either way, you can do
either one. The GEMS Worsted yarn is actually machine washable, but right after you finish
working on something, I usually want to hand wash it. So, let it soak in the sink with
some wool soap and then I put mine in the dryer on spin cycle to spin out the access
water, and set it out flat to dry. And you’ll find that even though we were careful with
the floats on the back of the work, you do want to stretch it out a little bit. You’re going to get a little more length to
the cowl than you had when you were knitting it. And that’s one of the nice things about
always sticking with wool when you’re doing stranded knitting like this, is because the
wool’s going to be really forgiving. And then set it out to dry, because it’s double sided,
you might want to flip it half way through and let the other side dry. And then the very
last thing I want to show you is a little trick for tidying up the jog that was created
when we joined in the round. You can do this little trick on both the cast on row and the
bind off row. Round, I keep saying row. We’re actually knitting in the round. So, let’s
go ahead and take a look. We’re going back to this sample, where I left
my lifeline in from the last segment. This is the cast on row. The jog here isn’t bad,
but I can make that look better when I go to weave in this end. And this is something
that I do. This is how I weave in the end every time. I weave in the end when I’m knitting
in the round. It’s just a technique that I always use to make it look really good and
smooth on the cast on and bind off edges. So I put the tail on a tapestry needle. I’m
going to go through…I usually end up trying it a couple times. I’m going to go through,
yeah, the stitch here, right here at the slipknot. And then go back down to the same place I
came out of essentially, sort of right there. That looks really good. The slipknot’s kind
of sticking out. Let me try that again. Even though I’ve done this 8,000 times in my life,
I usually end up trying it a couple different times to see which one I like better. I’m
going to go behind the slipknot this time. You see there’s two legs with a V right there?
See if I can get the slipknot to kind of squish down. Go back in the same place I came out
of. No, this might not work, this might be too far. Nope that doesn’t…well, I got rid
of the slipknot, but I don’t like the way the work looks like right there. I’m going
to go back to the way it was. Honestly people, this is exactly the way I
always do it. I always do it two or three times to make sure I like how it looks. I
liked it better when I went right here at the slipknot. And then once that’s finished,
you have…usually my slipknot isn’t sticking out quite that much, but once that’s finished,
you have a nice clean edge and you can just weave in this end in the back of the work
for an inch or so. And then cut the yarn short. This’ll also smooth out a bit with blocking.
I can make sure to straighten out the rows. Oh, that also reminds me. I know there’s going
to be a question that didn’t really come up in the sample I was knitting, but people are
going to ask, “Should we do the color change jog correction?” And if you don’t know what
that is, don’t worry about it. Just follow the pattern. But people are going to ask,
“Should we do the color change jog correction when we’re changing colors between the rounds?”
And the answer is no. I actually tried it both ways to see how it would look. And the
reason it doesn’t really work in this pattern is because of the slip stitches. So there’s
no need to. It’s because we have slip stitches right out front in the row sometimes. That
technique it not going to work. If you’re curious about what that technique
is, I’ll give you a link here on-screen to take you to that. The technique is very cool
and works with most patterns. Okay, I’m glad I remembered that, just looking at the work
here reminded me. Anyway, many thanks to Marey Cheba for letting us use her pattern in this
tutorial. And many thanks to Louet and their GEMS Worsted yarn for being the perfect yarn
for Marey’s pattern and sponsoring this video. I can’t wait to see what color combinations
you all put together for this. Good luck.

59 thoughts on “Knitting Tutorial – Tesserino Cowl

  • Thank you, Staci! When I saw this tutorial posted I thought, "Yeah right! I'll never get to Fair Isle!" But this pattern was deceptive, like you said. Thank you, Mari Chiba, for helping us knitters look good! 🙂

  • Thanks so much Stacy. As usual your tutorials are wonderful.
    I looked at the pattern after i watched you and i found a couple of things.
    The most important i things i think is how you slip stitches. I didn't see anywhere where it said knit purl wise. Also, it doesn't say to slip separate or together. For example if i remember where it said slip 3, you slipped two together and then one. How did you know to do this? I might have missed it on the pattern though! Also the start says start round 3 with knit one row, i think that would be round 5.

    Thanks again, another pattern i would not be able to do without you!

  • Hi Staci! Another fantastic tutorial for a pattern that I can't wait to knit. I just wanted to share that around 17:15 in the video, you said that you put your cowl in the dryer on the spin cycle to get out the excess water after blocking, but I'm pretty sure you meant to say the washer. I just didn't anyone to try drying their cowl accidentally; a felted cowl may not be the desired outcome 😉

  • Ohhhhh!!!! Luv this scarf, I have been looking for a cool throw stitch and I have found it. Of course this will be a long term piece for my ambitious moments. Thanks!

  • Hi Stacie,I don't like knitting with circular needles,do you think I can knit this with regular needles and join the two sides some way?thank you I love your videos.

  • Wow! Thank you so much, Staci, for this really cool tutorial. I will try this directly this evening. Many greetings from Luxembourg.

  • I watched the video with great pleasure.thank you

  • NICE!! Going to try this. Fair isle is nice, I had to teach myself how to hold 2 colors at once, but this looks like it will be muuuuch easier!

  • Dear Staci,

    I think this would make a very good double knitted project. From a designers standpoint, is this style of knitting and double knitting comparable in terms of amount of yarn necessary?

    I'm finally to the point where I am a confident enough knitter that I am altering patterns and someday hope to be a designer myself 😀



  • Even if I am not sure I will make a project, I always watch your videos because I always learn something helpful. Thanks so much!

  • Hi stacy
    Love this pattern and tutorial. Thank you. My question is on slipping the stitches. In the pattern it says to slip with yarn in back, so do we slip knitwise or pearlwise

  • Thanks for the inspiration. I have been knitting hats for charity and have been getting bored with them. I decided to use fewer stitches and make a hat with the mosaic design. So far it is working well. I'm sure I'll do more in the future. It is a great way to use up those leftover yarns.

  • Nice pattern although it kinda annoys me that the back of the work will be showing when double wrapped cause that is the case right? On another matter I was wondering if you have any tutorials on how to knit boarders on things like how to make stitches along an uneven edge or how to pick up stitches under the sleeves when doing a topdown raglan – always getting annoyed trying to make it look good 🙂
    Lastly i gotta say i love your tutorials

  • watching your videos, I learned the kitchener stich, entrelac, and ten stich blanket. Your explanation of the stiches makes it very easy to understand. thanks

  • Can you do a tutorial that shows how you knit in the second color yarn? I am a right handed thrower. I have watched your right handed flick/continental video, but that doesn't show how you add in the second yarn either.

  • Great pattern. I've been knitting for more than 15 years and I still use lifelines. I highly recommend them for peace of mind. They also help as row markers for larger pieces.

  • Thank you for showing me this pattern. I love your channel! I get all my ideas for Christmas and birthday presents from you. I was just wondering though, is there a pattern to make this a blanket? It would look great as one. Thank you again!

  • This is very beautiful. I would love to make the one you were wearing so you casted on only 220? It looks more than 220 to make that long length.

  • Hi Staci. I'm about halfway through Tesserino Cowl and I really love it. I used Cascade Venezia which is a wool/silk blend. The edges are folded over and it is curling. I'm not a tight knitter, so I'm praying the whole time that this will all work out after blocking. What do you think?

  • Hi Staci…I had to read in the comments about how many stitches you cast on for the long shawl. I tried to get the free pattern when you first posted this video, and I could not get it and I tried again today and still, could not get it…. so while watching the video when you pulled your pattern down I paused the video and hand wrote the directions down. I have been in a crochet and knitting rut since this video aired and told myself Staci does some great projects try another one of hers…..Thank You so Much I Love your Inspiration.

  • Hello Stacı your tutorıals.and your easy way of explaıng thıngs. My problem ıs that ı cannot download the pattern because my emaıl doesnt get accepted. I lıve ın Turkey and havent had thıs problem before. CAN ANY ONE OFFER ME ANY ADVICE .THANK YOU IN ADVANCE

  • Thank you for helpıng me to download the Tesserıno Cowl. very happy and grateful.just fınıshed the shaker cloth and your explanatıon ıs excellent. thank youn agaın

  • Hi Staci – I was considering this pattern as a good way to work on my Portuguese Knitting skills. Do you think this would translate well to do so? I like the idea of all purling in the round….quick and easy! But not sure how to slip the stitches since the yarn is coming from the front. (Pattern is knit all rows slipping purlwise w/ yarn in back) Thanks for any advice!

  • Hi Staci – Thanks to your tutorials, I've branched out and attempting to complete this scarf, but find that my work is curling up.  Am I doing something wrong?

  • Staci, do you think it is possible to use this pattern for a slouchy hat or a beanie??..Thank you for this video.

  • Verypink is my first stop when I need any type of tutorial. Staci has SO many techniques-all clearly presented & ready to enhance my knitting!

  • Hi Staci! Yet another awesome tutorial ! And thank you very much for sharing such helpful 'tricks' that make a big difference. You encourage me and inspire me and I thank you for re-igniting my love of knitting!

  • Hello I am little confused by the needle size. I get that the US size 6 is equal to 4mm but wouldnt the metric length of the circulars be 60 mm and not 24mm?

  • A super shared design. Thank you for sharing your techniques and an extremely clear tutorial. A great plus too in using circular knitting needles.

  • Must do pattern. I have never used a "lifeline" but I will be in the future. Have just found your videos, and I'm binge watching!.

  • Lifeline!!! Wow! What incredible brilliance!
    I just love love your channel and finding fun patterns that I would otherwise not attempt. You’re so helpful and delightful. Thank you for another great video 🙂

  • I'm working this on a practice piece with stash yarn. My garter edge is very curled. Suggestions? Otherwise your video makes it clear as a bell!

  • Wow!! Someone was giving me help over FB.. And mentioned a back line.. Its a LIFE LINE!!! THUS US HUGE WONDERFULLY NEEDED FOR ME!!!
    THABK YOU!! IT was just about an hour ago. I was going to look it up,.and HERE YOU ARE SHOWING THIS!!! WOW!!
    THANK YOU !! I've tried to take my knitting a blanket to a certain point and then push a needle back through.. Oh yeah

    I had to tear it ALL OUT

    A 'LIFE LINE'!😍.. SO MUCH!! IM Saving this video!!😁👏👏👏👍👍

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