KNITTING GAUGE for Total Beginners (and Troubleshooting Gauge)

If you want your knitting to fit properly,
then you’ll have to get gauge. What’s gauge? I’m glad you asked. We’ll talk all about gauge in this video. You’ve probably heard knitters talk about
gauge. They might say something like, “Did you
get gauge for this pattern?” or “What’s the gauge on this yarn?” or “Sure, you
can use this yarn, as long as you get gauge.” Gauge. You’ve heard the word and maybe you kind
of know what it is. Sort of? Maybe? I hear you. It’s complicated. Before I really understood the concept of
gauge, I would knit blindly. I would pick a pattern that I really liked
and I would choose exactly the same needles and yarn that the pattern told me to get. And I figured that should probably be okay,
right? And sometimes, the pattern actually did turn
out okay. I’d have a sweater that fit miraculously
or a hat that fit, and I’d think, okay that’s alright. But sometimes my projects would be disastrous. I’d have a sweater that was enormous, a
hat that couldn’t fit me. One time I knit mittens that were supposed
to be for me, but they ended up being so tiny that I gave them to my niece, who’s in preschool. So how do we knit things that fit? Well, we do it by getting gauge. ‘Cos if you don’t get gauge, then gauge
is going to get you. Yep, that’s a tweetable. So, I’m going to bring in some friends to
help me explain knitting gauge. This is Bobby and this is Daisy. Bobby and Daisy want to knit a sweater. In fact, they’re knitting the same sweater,
which is the Everyday Raglan. This is a pattern put out by Sheep and Stitch. So Bobby and Daisy are knitting the same pattern,
in the same size, and they’re even using the same yarn and the same knitting needles. So under these conditions, do you think Daisy
and Bobby will end up with identically-sized sweaters? Remember: their raw materials are the same;
their pattern is the same; and the size they’re knitting is also the same. What do you think? Is there another variable that could throw
off the size of their knitted sweater? If you said knitting tension, then you’re
absolutely right. High five! Knitting tension is unique to each knitter. It basically boils down to how tight or how
loose you knit. So, let’s say Bobby is a really tight knitter. He’s a nervous, neurotic type, and he grips
his yarn and needles really tightly. Now, Daisy over here. Let’s say she’s a really relaxed, hippie
girl. She loves dancing in the sun. She’s a vegan. She sings with her eyes closed, She’s a
really loose knitter. Because Daisy and Bobby knit at different
tensions, their sweater probably won’t be the same size even though they’re knitting
the same pattern, the same size, and they’re using the same materials. Because Bobby is a tight knitter, his sweater
will probably be smaller than Daisy’s. Because Daisy is a loose knitter, her sweater
will probably be bigger than Bobby’s. And this will happen even if they’re using
the same raw materials. So imagine how hard this would be for a pattern
designer. How’s a pattern designer going to design
a pattern so that the tightest knitter and the loosest knitter and everybody in-between
can knit the same pattern and get the same-sized garment? If you said knitting gauge, the cookie for
you! Or, cookie for me. Knitting gauge is a way to standardise knitting
tension so that the tightest and loosest knitter can knit the same pattern in the same size
and get identically sized garments. Now you understand the concept of knitting
gauge. Yeah? Clear as mud? Next, let’s look at knitting gauge in the
wild. Every pattern will ask for a knitting gauge
made up of stitches and rows. Let’s take a look at the gauge for the Everyday
Raglan pattern. The Everyday Raglan pattern asks for a gauge
of 16 stitches and 24 rows to equal 4 inches or 10 centimetres in Stockinette Stitch using
your larger needles, which is 6mm. Whew! This means that if you knit 16 stitches and
24 rows in your chosen yarn, needle size, and unique knitting tension, and your knitting
measures out to 4 inches or 10 centimetres on each side, then you’ve got gauge. Woohoo! So if Bobby and Daisy get gauge for this pattern,
and they follow the instructions for size medium, then they can be assured that their
finished sweater will come out to be the same size. Now you know what knitting gauge is, why it
matters, and what it looks like in the real world, like in a knitting pattern. Next, we’ll put this into practice. We’ll go through a scenario that you’ll
likely encounter when you’re going through a knitting pattern. We’re going to choose yarn and needles for
a pattern and we’ll try to get gauge with them. So you’ve chosen a knitting pattern that
you like. Awesome! Next step is yarn and needles. How do you choose them? The best place to look is to the knitting
pattern itself. Most patterns include a recommended yarn and
needle size. If we look at the Everyday Raglan pattern,
you’ll see that the recommended needle size is 6mm, and the recommended yarn is Cascade
Yarns Ecological Wool. So these are not set in stone. They’re just recommendations, but you can
get an idea of the kind of yarn and needle size to look out for. So here we go. I’ve got my heavy worsted weight yarn and
my 6mm needles. Now I can start testing for gauge. For this demo, I’ll use the Everyday Raglan
pattern. Once again the gauge for the pattern is 16
stitches and 24 rows equals 4 inches or 10 centimetres in Stockinette Stitch. If you’re working another pattern, then
follow the gauge instructions for that pattern. Okay, so let’s start casting on. Instead of casting on 16 stitches exactly,
I’m going to cast on an extra eight stitches. These extra stitches act as a border around
my swatch because stockinette tends to curl inwards, which makes measuring it from edge-to-edge
kind of difficult and inaccurate. So I’m going to knit a garter stitch border
around my swatch so that it lies flat and is easier to measure. I’m using stockinette stitch for this demo
because knitting gauge is usually done in stockinette stitch but if your pattern gauge
asks for garter stitch or seed stitch or any other stitch, then use whatever stitch they
ask for. I’m casting on 16 stitches and I’m adding
8 extra stitches which equals a total of 24 stitches. So here’s 24 stitches. Lovely. I’m going to knit a couple rows in garter
stitch, which is just knitting all your rows and that’s going to form the bottom garter
stitch border of my gauge swatch. Just a couple rows of straight-up garter stitch. Here I’ve done three rows of garter stitch. Now I’m ready to work stockinette stitch. I want to leave a two-stitch garter stitch
border on either side of my swatch, so I’m going to bring in stitch markers to help me
remember where my border starts and where it ends. I’m going to knit two of my first two stitches,
and then I’m going to take my stitch marker and pop that on there. Now I’m going to do knitting. So we’ve moved on to the stockinette stitch
portion of the swatch. Now I’m just knitting as normal until I
get to the last two stitches on this row, at which point I’ll slip in my second stitch
marker. I’ve reached my last two stitches and I’m
going to take my stitch marker and pop it on here and knit those last two stitches. These two stitches on either side are garter
stitch whereas the middle portion is all going to be stockinette stitch. I’m going to turn my needle over and work
the reverse side. So here are these two stitches. I’m going to do two stitches in garter stitch,
which is just knitting. I’ll slip this stitch marker over and now
i’m going to purl the middle section which is my stockinette stitch. This is the section that I’m going to be
measuring when I measure my gauge swatch. Stockinette stitch is knitting one row and
purling the other. Just a little reminder there. I’ve reached my last two stitches on the
wrong side row. I’m going to slip that stitch marker over
and knit those last two stitches because these form my garter stitch border. Cool. So I’m going to repeat that all over again. I’m going to continue in this manner, knitting
these two border stitches on either side of my swatch and work stockinette stitch in the
middle. My pattern gauge asks for 24 rows in stockinette
stitch so I’m going to knit an extra four or five rows. Those extra rows make measuring a little bit
easier. For me, I need at least 24 rows, but I’ll
probably end up knitting 30 rows or so. So here I go. Cool. I’ve knit about 28 rows of stockinette stitch,
this part in the middle, and now I’m going to knit three or four rows in garter stitch
to finish off my top border. Then I can cast off. Ta-da! I’ve just finished my gauge swatch. It’s off the needles, and you can see that
it’s this little square. It’s so cute and small. You can think of this gauge swatch as like
a “Mini Me” of your final project, which in my case is a sweater. We’re going to use this swatch to test the
gauge of our pattern. This gauge swatch also gives you a good idea
of what your final project will look and feel like. So this next step is kind of optional. It’s also kind of controversial, as controversial
as a knitting technique can be. At this point you can choose to do one of
two things. One: you can measure your swatch and see if
you got gauge or not. Or two: you can block your swatch, wait for
it to dry, and then measure to see if you got gauge. Obviously, option two requires more work and
more time, so I totally understand if you’re like, “ugh, I don’t want to do this.” I get this. It’s a lot of suspense building up. You want to know, did you get gauge or not? But I feel like I need to tell you about the
blocking option so you can decide for yourself whether it’s necessary. The thinking behind blocking your swatch is
based on the fact that your finished knitting project, whatever it is, will at some point
get wet. I don’t just mean that you’ll get caught
out in the rain and it’s going to get wet. It’s based on the idea that you’re going
to wash your finished project at some point. You’re not a slob. You’re going to wash it. It’s going to get dirty. When you wash any knitted item, the stitches
tend to relax and fill out a bit. They tend to relax. So your knitting actually gets a bit looser
and your tension changes. So in order to get a really accurate picture
of what your finished project is going to look like, you’ll want to wash your gauge
swatch also so that the fibres can also relax and bloom and you get a really accurate picture
of what your finished project will look like. So, should you block your swatch? I’m of two minds about this. If you’re knitting something where the fit
is really important, like say you’re knitting a sweater and if you’re off by an inch or
two inches in the bust or the waist, then that totally throws off the look of the sweater,
then you should absolutely block your swatch. Be very accurate. However, if you’re knitting a scarf or a
shawl or even mittens, then I’m not so sure that I’d block my swatch. Just knitting a swatch would be enough for
me. It really depends on you. If you want to be super accurate, like an
A+ student, then absolutely block your swatch. It can’t hurt. It just take more time. Ultimately it’s really up to you. So how do you block a swatch? Easy peasy. You’ll take this little square and dunk
him in a bit of lukewarm water. We’ll totally submerge our gauge swatch
in the water, flip it over, make sure all the fibres are underwater. Cool. So now we’re going to leave it alone for
fifteen minutes. It’s been fifteen minutes, and now I’m
going to take my swatch out of the water. I’m going to push out the water as much
as I can. I’m not wringing it. I’m not going like this. That’s bad. Don’t do that. The reason why is you don’t want your swatch
to felt. Just push out the water as much as you can. I’m going to take out a towel and lay my
swatch on my towel. I’ll roll out my towel like this and press
it so I can get as much water out as possible. Cool. Now I’m going to let my gauge swatch hang
out and dry. That’s all there is to it. Just leave it alone, let it dry. This can take anywhere from 8-24 hours depending
on the temperature and the climate where you live. Once your swatch has dried, then you have
successfully blocked it. If you blocked your swatch, then gold star
for you. You are the Lisa Simpson of swatching. Well done. Whether or not you blocked your swatch, now
is the moment of truth. We’re going to measure our swatch to see
if we got gauge. I’ll get my tape measure out and a couple
of stitch markers. If you don’t have these, that’s fine. They’re just helpful. I’m going to use my stitch markers to mark
out the borders of my four-inch square. So, what we’re measuring is four inches
across our gauge swatch, and we want to count up how many stitches are in four inches of
space. So we’re measuring horizontally to measure
the stitches, and we’ll also be measuring vertically to measure the number of rows that
fall within a four-inch space. Let’s start with rows first. I’m going to take my stitch marker and plant
it somewhere on the left side here. I’m going to measure it right beside the
beginning of a stitch. A stitch is just a little v-shape, so one
of these guys would be a stitch. That would be a stitch. Just a little v-shape. I’m going to start on the left-hand corner
here. I’ll insert my stitch marker right there. I’m going to measure from the stitch marker
over to four inches. So, let’s see. That’s about here. Let’s do that. Just insert it in. I’m marking off a four-inch space so that
it’ll be easier for me to count up my stitches. So, let’s start counting. I’m going to start here and start counting. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight,
nine, ten, eleven, twelve, thirteen, fourteen, fifteen, sixteen. Awesome! So, I got gauge. Woohoo! Well, I got gauge stitch-wise. Horizontally across I got gauge, which is
really exciting. And now I need to figure out if I got gauge
vertically. So, now we’re going to measure vertically. We’re going to measure the number of rows
that stack up within four inches. So, the number of rows within this four-inch
parameter. Let’s take out our stitch markers here because
we already measured out our stitches. So I’m going to measure out somewhere in
the middle here and go around here. The bottom of the stitch. There’s a v-shape here, and i’m going
to put in my stitch marker at the bottom of the v. so that I can measure that entire v-shape
if that makes sense. Alright, here we go. Here it is. I’ll measure from this point. I’m measuring up, and let’s put in a stitch
marker here. So that’s about four inches. Cool. So now I’m going to count up the number
of rows I have between these stitch markers, which equal a four-inch space. Alright, let’s go. Here’s one, two, three, four, five, six,
seven, eight – and if you ever get confused, I usually just put my needle down. I can reorient my eyes and start again. Okay, so that was five, right? Was it? Oh gosh. See, now I’m getting confused myself. Let’s start again. So, counting from here. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight,
nine, ten. And I can put my needle down if I feel dizzy
or confused. So that’s ten. Reorient myself. Eleven, twelve, thirteen, fourteen, fifteen,
sixteen, seventeen, eighteen, nineteen, twenty, twenty-one, twenty-two, twenty-three, twenty-four! Ah! I totally got gauge! Who got gauge? I got gauge. Who has two thumbs and got gauge? That would be me. This girl! Oops, my thumbs aren’t even pointing correctly. This girl! So I’m a little excited right now because
it was a long time coming. But I got gauge! I got 16 stitches and 24 rows to equal the
gauge that I need to knit my sweater. I got gauge. My gauge swatch proved that, so I’m really
happy right now as you can tell. If you get gauge, I’m sure you’ll be really
happy as well. Now I know that when I knit my pattern using
this yarn and my 6mm needles, then my finished sweater will be the exact size listed in the
finished measurements of my pattern. I’m confident because my gauge swatch matches
up with the pattern gauge. This is really exciting. Now I’m good to go. I can take the yarn and needles that I chose
and start knitting. Woohoo! Alright. Let’s get real. What happens when you don’t get gauge? Not all of your gauge swatches are going to
be perfect. The stars aren’t always going to align. Sometimes your stitches and rows are going
to be a little off. The problem falls in two categories. Either you have too few stitches and rows
or you have too many stitches and rows. These are pesky problems, but I’ve got solutions. First up, we’ll tackle what to do when you
have too few stitches and rows. If you have fewer stitches than the required
gauge, then your gauge is too large. So we’ll use this swatch as an example. For me, the gauge that I’m trying to get
is 16 stitches and 24 rows equals four inches. So, let’s take a look at this swatch here. I’m going to use this little gauge contraption. You can get this on Amazon or at most yarn
stores. This measures a four inch window vertically
and horizontally, so it makes measuring your gauge a bit easier. But of course you can use a regular tape measure
if you don’t have this guy. For the sake of this demo, I’m going to
use this. It’s a bit easier. Okay, so when I put this little four-inch
window on top of my gauge swatch, I can see that – let’s count up the number of stitches
that we have and the number of rows. The number of rows: one, two, three, four,
five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, eleven, twelve, thirteen, fourteen, fifteen, sixteen,
seventeen. Do you like my song? Seventeen rows vertically. So that’s less rows that we need for our
gauge. Stitch-wise, we’ve got one, two, three,
four five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten and a half. So, ten and a half stitches across. It’s less stitches than we need. In terms of stitches and rows we have less
than the target gauge. So what does this mean? This means that my yarn is simply too big. It’s so big that it only takes ten and a
half stitches across to get up to four inches whereas i need 16 stitches to get to four
inches. The yarn is simply too big. When I think about this, I like to imagine
that the stitches are like lemmings or hamsters or some other creature. It helps to visualise the actual components
of a gauge swatch. In this situation I need 16 hamsters across
and 24 hamsters tall in order to meet my gauge. But here, I’ve only got ten and a half hamsters
across and 17 hamsters up. So what’s the problem? The hamsters are too big. I need to shrink them so I can fit five and
a half more hamsters across and seven more hamsters up. So if I substitute stitches for hamsters,
the principle still remains. With this gauge swatch, the yarn is too big,
so we need to shrink the stitches so that we can fit more hamsters or stitches into
this four inch square. So how do we do that? Coming up, two ways to reduce the gauge. We can go down by half a millimetre to one
millimetre increments until you get gauge. Reducing the needle size can reduce the gauge. In our case we need to shrink our stitches
or our hamsters or our stitch-hamsters. We want to shrink these down. So we can do that by shrinking our needle
size. On this swatch, I used a 10mm needle, and
I can reduce my needle size to a 9mm or an 8mm, like this, and see if I can get gauge
with a smaller needle size. So, I can continue going down needle sizes. If 8mm doesn’t work, and my stitches are
still too big, or there’s still too few stitches in my gauge swatch, I can reduce
down to a seven millimetre or a six millimetre. So we can reduce the needle size in order
to increase the number of stitches in our gauge swatch. But there’s a downside to this. As you reduce your needle size, the fabric
will become tighter and tighter and stiffer. So the resulting fabric may be so stiff that
you don’t really want to work with it anymore. You might end up getting gauge, but the fabric
is not so nice to touch or have on your body. So keep that in mind as you are reworking
your gauge. the smaller the needle size, the stiffer the
fabric will be. If you find that your fabric is too tight,
then move on to option two. Most people are not crazy about this option
because they get attached to their yarn, and I totally get that, but if changing your needle
size doesn’t get you gauge, then this is sort of the last option that you have. So back to the swatch. The yarn that I used is a super bulky weight
yarn, which is several levels thicker than the recommended yarn for my pattern. If I choose a yarn weight that’s lighter,
like let’s say a heavy worsted weight or even a chunky weight, then I’m much more
likely to hit the knitting gauge that I need. This is a photo of the yarn weight family,
just to give you an idea of the yarn weights that are available. So this brings us to our next gauge problem,
which is on the opposite end of the spectrum: what do you do when you have more stitches
or rows than what you need. That’s coming up. If you have more stitches or rows than your
required gauge, then your gauge is too small. My pattern gauge is 16 stitches and 24 rows,
but on my gauge swatch here I’ve got 29 stitches across and 46 rows up within a four
inch space. There are too many stitches in this four inch
space. We need to “enlargen”, we need to “embiggen”,
we need to make our stitches bigger in order to meet our pattern gauge. So what do you think this means? If you said the yarn is too small, then you’re
right. This situation is the exact opposite of the
last problem, where the gauge was too big because the yarn was too big. In this situation, the yarn is simply too
small. 26:34 So back to the hamster analogy. When your gauge is too small, that means that
you have more hamsters or stitches or stitch hamsters than you need. Your four inch square is overrun with hamsters. You’ve got an infestation. There’s just too many of them across and
above. There are so many of them because they’re
really small, so more of them can fit into your four inch gauge swatch. Okay, so how to remedy this? Option one: increase the needle size. Sounds familiar right? In the last example, we decreased the needle
size. In this scenario, we can increase the needle
size by half a millimetre to a full millimetre and swatch again to see if we can’t hit
our target gauge. Just like with our first example, there’s
a potential downside to increasing your needle size. Increase too much and your fabric can become
really loose and almost lacy and see-through. So you might not like the way your fabric
becomes when you increase your needle size. You have to balance the feel of the fabric
with getting the right gauge. The other trick I have for a small gauge is
blocking. Yes, we’ve returned to blocking. Option two: blocking your swatch. Blocking can be a real help to gauge swatches
that are too small. Think about it: my gauge swatch here is 29
stitches and 46 rows. I need 16 stitches and 24 rows. So what if I just stretched my gauge swatch? If I stretched it out and blocked it in this
shape, now suddenly I have fewer stitches in this four inch square. It looks kind of comical right now, but logically
it works. By blocking the swatch, we’re making the
yarn relax. As a result, the fabric stretches out. A lot of the times the gauge problems can
be blocked out. This is a really extreme example because this
swatch is clearly too small to meet my gauge requirements, but if your gauge swatch is
short by a few stitches or rows then you can absolutely block your swatch and stretch it
out and meet your gauge that way. So if your swatch is too small, and you’re
short by a couple stitches or a couple rows, then block that swatch and see if you can
push and pull and massage your swatch so that it meets your target knitting gauge. More often than not, blocking will enlarge
or “embiggen” your gauge swatch that’s too small and problem solved. If blocking does the trick, then awesome. You can use the yarn and needles that you
originally used and start knitting your pattern. If all else fails then consider switching
to a heavier yarn weight. I know it’s painful and you’re really
attached to your yarn, but sometimes no amount of fiddling with needle sizes and blocking
is going to get you the gauge that you need. It’s really sad, I know. It’s kind of like Cinderella’s glass slipper. No matter how hard those stepsisters tried
to cram their feet into that slipper, it ain’t going to happen. And so it is with knitting gauge sometimes. When all else fails, consider going up to
a heavier yarn weight. So here’s a quick chart that summarises
how to troubleshoot your knitting gauge. So there you have it. Now you know how to knit a gauge swatch, measure
it, and also troubleshoot it in case you don’t get the gauge that you need for your pattern. Thanks so much for watching, guys. This has been a pretty technical video about
a dry but very important topic. So remember, if you want to knit something
that fits, then you got to get gauge. If you like this video, then give it a big
thumbs up and if you loved this video then do subscribe. I’m Davina from Thanks for watching, happy knitting, don’t
forget to get gauge. Bye!

100 thoughts on “KNITTING GAUGE for Total Beginners (and Troubleshooting Gauge)

  • I still don't understand why you need to gauge and what a gauge is, I've been trying to figure this out for days 😖

  • Loved this video! Thank you for putting this in a way I understand! I’ve just been using the recommended needle size and yarn size for every project, now I can have a little more freedom!

  • Great tutorial, informative, clear and straight to the point. Thank you for sharing, you are a good teacher💕💕💕

  • What if only the stitches or rows are wrong and the other is correct i.e the stitches are correct but not the rows?

  • Wonderful vid. I knew a 'little' about gauging but you took it to full understanding. Had slight issue hearing, at times, with background music being a bit louder than necessary. Just my opinion.

  • The problem I have is when I get the right number of stitches across I have too many rows up and down. In short my stitch is consistently wide but short. Changing needles or yarn does not in most cases change this for me. Is there any trick you know of short of rewriting pattern shaping to accommodate more rows? I can and have rewritten patterns (I learned because of this problem) I am just hoping you have a simpler solution.

  • I was wondering what to do when my gauge said 8 sts = 1" 12 rounds = 1" . I can tell already that my yarn is wayyy too small and I'll need to double it and perhaps go up a needle size to obtain gauge. Like the hamsters lol but we love rats, woulda been so much cuter to have rats instead for me ☺. Many people don't like them though and the N.Y. ones wouldn't have fit into your measuring thingy hehe. I hear they are as big as ally cats 😨.

  • Shoot, btw, or p.s., I wish you could so a simple sock pattern in depth with fingering weight yarn for those of us that aren't in the know. I've been looking for one and they tend to cut out alot. Got lost on one today actually. I wasn't impressed, it was on the heel decreases. Ugh, coulda screamed!. Thanks for the videos.

  • Best gauge video! I’m finally going to make that sweater I’ve been afraid wouldn’t fit. 🤗 Subscribed!

  • Thank you SO much haha… guess I will never start knitting a project without trying to get gauge first. You kind of got me excited for the whole gauge thing… 😂❤️👌🏼

  • Thank you for taking the time to explain guage and it was entertaining! It has totally helped me! Keep up the awesome videos! You rock!

  • I understand it now I had better make a gauge swatch before I do my knitting I never made one since my mom never made one

  • This is the most helpful video ever! I’m
    About to start my first sweater and I’m SO glad I whipped up a gauge swatch first. Feeling WAY more confident! Thanks so much!


  • I'm a bit confused, it looked like you had 16.5 stitches in 4 inches rather than 16. Wouldn't that make a big difference multiplied across a sweater?

  • Thank you for showing how do a gauge I never knew how to do a gauge no one ever sho me too do that. I will do a gauge when I make my next knitting. You are so much fun and a very good teacher.

  • I feel like this is the best video for gauge as i searched and watched loads of videos and just hot so annoyed then i though lets try one more and thank god i did finally got an understanding

  • You are realy awsome! The topics in your videos are so simple that most of the knitters don't think would be useful or important for beginers, and THEY ARE! Thanks a lot for helping us in our knitting. Subscribed of course!! <3

  • Great representation of the importance of gauge. As a newer knitter I have always wanted to see this stuff laid out the way you have done. When you talk about yarn sizes, I am always confused about the differing names for yarn weight, like fingering for instance, what is it? Light? Is it lace’s older cousin? DK vs worsted, Chunky vs Bulky. Can we just have one name? Ok I am done ranting. Any thoughts?

  • Problem is you'll knit your swatch tight because you want to end fast and then you knit your sweater loose because you go slower, lol

  • I coincidentally watched this video and you explain it well, however I am missing an important solution. I am trained mathematically so if it's possible with the pattern, you can change the number of stitches/rows/ hamsters of the sweater pattern. For instance: in this example 16 stitches make 4 inch so every 4 stitches wide are 1 inch. Now let's say that you have 3 stitches in every inch. And let's say you have to cast on 64 stitches for the original pattern. You divide those 64 into 4 which is the original number of stitches per inch of the gauge and multiply that by your number of stitches per inch which is 3. (or divide into 16 and multiply by 12 if you want to do it for 4 inches, the outcome is the same) Then you have to cast on 64/4*3=48 stitches. If you are in luck the pattern has different sizes and the 48 is the same as a smaller size (or bigger if you knit tighter than gauge). Otherwise it takes some thinking on your side, again depending on the pattern. The same can be done for the rows. In the example 24 rows make a gauge of 4 inch so 6 rows make an inch. If the total height you have to knit is let's say 120 rows that would be 20 inch. And if you make an inch with 5 rows you only need 120/6*5 = 100 rows to reach 20 inch. Of course the pattern can be slightly larger or smaller when you do not have gauge, but your sweater would fit in the end and isn't that what counts?

  • I love all your videos. Many videos by other knitters are very well instructed and clear to understand, but as boring as watching paint dry. Your videos are always very well instructed and clear to understand as well, but you add a whole level of fun for the viewer with your bubbly personality and cute visuals. You are my favorite knitting YouTuber!! Thank you for taking the time to teach us.

  • Just a note: different fibers react differently to blocking. Superwash tends to actually lengthen and stretch downwards – quite a lot – so I learned the hard way to always block my swatches if I’m using a superwash. I don’t know how many other fibers or yarn types react like this to blocking, but I’m sure there are more. Something you learn with time and experience.

  • Thank you for this video, it seems me stretching my swatches while blocking is why when I finished my cardigan it was tight in a couple of places, the video also helped me figure out why i sometimes get gauge in sts but too many rows.

  • your explanations are so funny and not boring at all, makes me want to watch till the end. and you have a clear nice voice.


  • Really enjoyed the video and know about gauge but couldn’t stop watching, it’s great fun. I don’t think I’ll ever get those hamsters out of my mind now! Thank you. Keith xxx

  • Thank you so much! I’m substituting a worsted weight for a DK gauge and believe I’ve figured it out. Now, I’m trying to be sure that I have enough yarn. I’ve purchased the worsted and knit at the pattern DK gauge. Does it follow that the amounts would be the same?

  • Seriously SO HELPFUL. I've been winging it so far and this is the best instructional video I've watch on anything knitting. Thank you!!

  • Just know that if you are really stretching out your swatch to get gauge , Then you will have to do the same thing to the item you are going to make. This can lead to many problems as over time yarn tends to go back the the shape it "feels" comfortable at. Some yarns will stretch over time but if you have really pulled your yarn to get gauge it can also want to come back to where it is not so pulled on. You can stretch items out some and they will be fine. Just don't over do it. It is much better to adjust your needle or yarn size if you want your item to fit properly and lay or hang right. Stretching to much can totally change the feel of your item.

  • Thank you so much. I’ve knitted and crocheted for years but never really understood the concept of gauge. This seems so simple if you want your final project to look like the love I put into it.

  • First video I’ve watched from your channel. Excellent!!! Can’t wait to see what else you have to offer. Thank you so much!❤️🙋🏻🙂

  • I have a question, do I have to buy a pattern to knit? I mean where I live knitting isn't popular so to buy something I'd have to wait weeks to get it.. so what I usually do is just buy yarn and I have all needle sizes (i think) and just knit what ever i want .. but I do face issues with getting the right size.. so is there a way that I can come up with my own gauge?

  • I have a sweater pattern but cannot figure out how much yarn I need. The instructions for figuring are very complicated.

  • I have been crocheting since I was a teen and recently picked up knitting. I have literally never understood gauge until this video, thank you so much for explaining/demonstrating it and the troubleshooting to go with it in an easy way to understand!
    I have avoided making anything where it would matter all this time! Now I have the skill if I want to try a wearable project!
    Thanks again!

  • What do you do when you have the right stitch gauge, but the wrong row gauge? This happens to me a lot for some reason

  • Hi this is so useful. Thanks. Can you help me. My first and last stitch in each row is always loose so the edging is not neat. What can I do to avoid that? Thanks

  • 3:55 Cool! This is the only way I know how to knit. (Australian cheap 100g 8ply). I’d ‘also’ change the gauge to fit my yarn.

  • Wow! Thank you so much for explaining this. I've tried explaining this to others and it is tough. I love watching your videos 🙂

  • I have watched many videos on getting gauge and this one is by far the best one I have seen, hands down! Excellent tutorial and so much fun and engaging to watch. It’s very thorough and answered all of my questions. I also appreciate your information on perhaps when I should consider the times when I should exercise patience and block my swatch. I never imagined that I would watch 30 minutes on gauging but I got hooked from the very beginning. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

  • Your video just popped up on my home page and it is wonderful! I’m about to attempt my first sweater and knew the concepts of gauge, but need this to really grasp the execution of gauge. Thank you so much!

  • I've never knitted before in my life and never had anyone to help me learn. That said, this video has been very helpful as I'm starting a pair of boiled wool gloves and trying to get them to fit my hands…well like a glove. Since the pattern accounts for the shrinking in the felting process, getting the gauge down is crucial.

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