How to Keep you Applique and Quilting Squares Wrinkle Free


Welcome to SewVeryEasy, my name is Laura. And once we’ve ironed our appliqué shapes and got them ready to go, or we have ironed our quilt block pieces and got them ready to go, we really don’t want to have to press them again. But when we need to store them and travel with them they have a tendency to get wrinkled So let’s make something so that we can travel with them, store them, and they won’t get wrinkled. We’re going to need a few things that are not available in your fabric store. This here is called pipe insulation. It has a hole down the center. It’s sort of like a foam. It wraps around pipes. This particular one is ½”. The next thing is a piece of doweling. This doweling is ¾”. What you need is that dowling to fit inside of that pipe insulation, and that’s going to keep it from being so flexible. I was able to get both of these at 36″ long, so I’m going to be able to get two with these two pieces. Cut them both in half so they’re the same length. You’re going to get 18″. And then take the dowel and put it right inside that insulation. You now have an 18″ piece of pipe insulation with the wood inside. The materials we’re going to need for that cover: Two 3½” circles, and that’s going to cover the end of the pipe. Some kind of ribbon or twine to wrap it together, and about 1¼ yds will work. A 7″ zipper. Now I have this fancy zipper that I’m going to be able to sew on top, but you can also have a regular zipper. This one is from Coats Thread Company and you usually can find them right where the regular zippers are bought. The outside cover is going to be the width of the fabric, which is 45″, and I’m going to need a 20″ piece. Two pieces of fleece, 17″ by anywhere between 24″–25″. We need to glue the little circle onto the end of the pipe. If we do that now it’ll give them a chance to dry. Because this is very much like a styrofoam, you won’t be able to use a hot glue gun. You’re going to need some type of a tacky glue and it really only needs to hold it temporarily. Just put a little bit on your circle. Put a little bit of that glue there and just fold that down and put an elastic. The elastic doesn’t have to be too tight; it’s just holding it down until that glue dries. Give it a little bit of a tug around that elastic to make it tighter. Do this to both sides. You can put it aside to dry. Our fabric’s 20″ by the width of the fabric which is about 45″, so you can trim off the selvages. We’re going to put a rolled edge on both of these long ones. We need to do a ½” and then turn another ½”. What we want is this fabric to equal the length of this pipe, so just adjust your seam allowances accordingly. So that rolled edge is a ½” and then a ½”, and then you’ll stitch it down. So the fabric is going to be the same length as that tube. Once the two sides are done we need to finish one edge. Just turn it over once and stitch down. It could be ½” or ¼”—whatever you’re comfortable doing. The next side we’re going to turn into a point. We’re going to turn this point into a pocket. The pocket is going to have that 7″ zipper right there. Take the end of this fabric and fold it in half. Match up the stitched edge and that raw edge and pin it. We’re going to make an opening for the zipper right in the center. Zipper measurements come from this end all the way to where the finished end is. It does not include those little hangover pieces. We want to make a 7″ opening, so depending on how wide your fabric is, you’re going to need to stitch down, leaving that 7″ opening. It’ll work out to about 1″ coming in on each side. Do a ½” seam allowance. It’ll just be easier to turn. Take the edge where the fold is and clip off a little point. Press the seams back, and do it on both sides. When you open that up flat you’re going to have a little seam here, a little seam there, with this opening in the center. Turn this to the right side. The zipper is going to lay right over top of this opening, so you can use a zipper with a decorative finish, or you can slide the zipper in underneath and have the zipper poking out through the top. Open up the zipper and lie each edge so that the fabric is a little bit inside, not on top of those teeth. You need to stitch that zipper down on the outside. Now if you find this is too hard to get under the machine, just do a little row of hand stitching all the way along. Close the zipper. The center seam should line up to the center of this panel, so you can take it and fold it in half and find a mark and then line that up so it’s straight. We need to do a row of top stitching all the way along that edge. Now I have turned this point into a pocket. To finish the point on the other side, we need to either add our ribbon or something that we’re going to tie it together with. I’m going to be using a very soft cotton rope. Fold it in half and just stitch this loop down right on that point. For the ends, I’ve just tied a knot and left the rope free. On the other short side we’re going to measure down 3½” and press so that we have this big 3½” seam. From the fold down, measure 2½”, draw a line, and stitch. So you have this flap. Layer two pieces of fleece on top of the wrong side of the fabric. Make sure that they line up along the edges so there’s nothing hanging over, and match them up. That 1″ lip is going to be able to come down and cover. You’ll be able to topstitch right along that top edge, securing your two pieces of fleece onto the front. This tube is going to go into that 2½” opening that’s at the top. You can leave the elastic on to start with and just put that tube all the way through. When you get to the end, take the elastic off and gently tuck all of that in. You’re going be able to push that a couple of inches inside, then you’re going be able to take the elastic off the other side. Tuck that in, having the edge of that foam coming to the edge of this fabric. We have a nice finished edge on each side. You can either just leave it or pull that back a little bit, put a little bit of glue, and then have that come over nicely on both sides so that glue is going to hold those edges down. These long pieces of fleece will have to be trimmed off along the bottom, but it’s better to see what you need now. Everybody’s piece is going to be slightly different. You’re going to just take that top and roll it. Straighten out that fleece as you go along. When you come near the end you will see how much you need to trim off. You don’t want it to come past this V point. Then just trim off the edges so that they’ll stay hidden by this V. A pair of scissors are going to work fine. Now when I continue to roll this, when I come to this side, you’re not going to see any of the fleece poking out. To use it is very simple. Quilt blocks will stay on. It doesn’t come off. You can put your quilt blocks on the top; you can also put blocks in-between, and whatever pieces you’re working on. Layer two pieces together and then just roll it up. You’re just going to have to straighten that as you go. As you roll, all of the quilt pieces are inside, and they’re not going to get wrinkled. They’re going to stay secure. You also have a pocket if you want to put in some loose squares, or your directions—any little things that you want to keep together with the project. Do it up and continue rolling. Just take the rope or ribbon, whatever you’ve done, and just twist it around. Give a little tie and you’re done. You know all of your quilt pieces are going to stay secure and you won’t need to re-press them. So once all those appliqué pieces are pressed and the block pieces are pressed, we can store them in this roll-up container. That way we don’t have to waste time and press them again. Thank you for joining me today on SewVeryEasy. Feel free to subscribe and, as always, come on back. Let’s see what we’re sewing next time in the sewing room. Bye for now!

83 thoughts on “How to Keep you Applique and Quilting Squares Wrinkle Free

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *