How To Hide A T Shirt Hole (Stretchy Knit Applique)

– [Alice] Today’s mission, save my daughter’s favorite shirt. Hi, I’m Alice the Fabric Ninja, and today we’re going to
fix this enormous hole with a large heart applique. I could certainly put a small applique just over this area here, but that actually falls
on my daughter’s belly, and I think putting a
heart just on her tummy might look a little weird. So, instead, I’m going
to go big or go home and do this enormous heart on her chest. To make the heart, I simply
made myself a paper template and tried it out for size. I changed the size a couple of times until I got it just right and then I cut my fabric. Today, I am using just some t-shirt knit. You can either repurpose
a t-shirt you already have or just get some t-shirt
knit at the fabric store. This is a 95% cotton 5% lycra. It’s a little bit different
than the shirt itself which is a rayon lycra. They’re close enough
that it’s going to work, with this being just slightly heavier. So, I’m going to put this
heart into place on the front with a little bit of spray adhesive. It’s a temporary spray adhesive that easily comes off and
dissipates into the air. But to put this on, I need to make sure that I’m
actually going to center my heart. So, I’m going to take a
quick look to help myself figure out where the center is. So, I’m going to use the seams here and these seams here to help myself figure
out where that center is. You can mark it, you can eyeball it. Whatever works best for you. I, instead of spraying the heart, I’m just going to spray
the front of the shirt. And then I can sticky note this all around until I find the perfect spot. So, there we go, the
bottom looks pretty good. The top is a little bit off though. This is a water soluble marker, and I’m going to fold the shirt
to help me find the center. So, I’m going to take the seams right here, fold it outward, and put those seams right
on top of each other so I can mark the center. Okay, let’s get that heart in place. I’m going to line up the bottom. I can use that top mark to center that on and I can use the stripes on the shirt to make sure that I have it as smooth
and right as possible. There we go. I think that’s about as centered
as I can possibly get it. It’s covering up all the holes down here, which is my main goal, but it’s also super adorable. Now, you could just head
to your sewing machine and sew it like this, but because my shirt fabric is so thin and lightweight, it’s really good chance that
I could manage to stretch and distort it out of
shape while I’m sewing. So, I’m going to take a
little bit of a precaution. I’m going to flip this inside out. Right there, you can see
those holes really well. And before I do this next step, I’m going to check out and make
sure I got everything smooth. And right here you can see I
have some bumps and gathers, which means that I actually didn’t manage to get that heart on smoothly. So, I am going to see
what I can do to fix that. (fast-paced electronic music) Let’s check it out this time. Oh, much better. Only got one to fix this time. (fast-paced electronic music) Let’s see what I got. Almost. Still got one in the center here. There we go. Okay. I have turned my shirt inside out. Here are my holes. Going to just make sure that’s all smooth. And I am going to use
a piece of interfacing. This is a pretty stiff interfacing. It’s used for machine embroidery. And I am going to just
stick a huge piece of it on the back here. But it’s tear-away stabilizer, so when I’m done, I’m
just going to rip it off and only a tiny little bit underneath the stitching
will still be left. Certainly, you don’t have to
use a piece this enormous, and I should probably cut this down. But how big should I make it? Oh, I have that heart already, so I know it needs to be about that size. There we go. Much better. I’m going to again use temporary spray adhesive. I know that there are some people within the embroidery community that do not like temporary spray adhesive. They say it gums up your machine. I have never had that happen. I’ve never had any problems with it, but this is the only kind I’ve ever used so perhaps there’s other kinds that do actually cause problems. But this one has always worked for me. So, we have our tear-away stabilizer, you could also use a cut-away stabilizer, that is stuck to our shirt. And I’m going to flip
everything right side out. It feels a little funny to do it because it’s all stiff and hard, but that’s good because it means while we’re stitching around it, we’re not going to have any problems with it pulling or bunching or just kind of getting out of whack. So, let’s head to the sewing machine and sew this down. I’m at the sewing machine and the first thing I’m going to do is replace my needle
with a ballpoint needle. Ballpoint needles are specifically
designed for knit fabric. They actually stitch between the fibers instead of cutting the fibers. If you’ve ever had a shirt get little, tiny holes along a seam line, it’s because the needle
actually cut as it was sewing, and these will make sure it doesn’t. So, I’ve replaced my needle and I have a full bobbin of pink thread. Certainly, you wouldn’t have
to have a matching bobbin, but I’m going to do it anyway. So, with this shirt, I’m
going to be opening it up and putting it over, and I’m going to make sure that I can see all the way through here and I’m not going to be stitching through the rest of the shirt. Now, I’m going to follow all the steps that a machine, embroidering
machine would do. A good file will have a straight
stitch that goes around. Then it will have a wider zigzag, sometimes a second time, and then it will do the satin stitch. So, I’m actually going to
follow all of those steps while doing this to make sure that I get a beautiful
satin stitch when it’s done. So, the first step is
we’re just going to sew a straight stitch around everything, and that holds everything in place before we really start doing much. I’m going to make my straight
stitch a bit longer than needed. Now, you’re, if you’re thinking, “But a straight stitch doesn’t stretch,” you’re absolutely right. A straight stitch does not stretch. But I am making the
stitch a little bit long, and this part of the
shirt is not necessarily going to stretch very much. It’s not along a seam line and it will be able to stretch
on either side as well. So, it’s not really a big problem. When I get to the corners here, I am putting my foot up and going around them. A heart has lots of curves
and corners and crevices and so you need to take your time and make sure things are out of the way. Now, I still have the
other shirt over here, and as I’m going around,
I’m making sure that the rest of the shirt is
always out of the way. When I get to the point
here and put my needle down. Pivot and head around the other side. You may remember how I sprayed the entire front of the shirt, and you may be thinking, “But
it’s all going to be so sticky “and she’s going to stick to it.” I’m not because the
adhesive that was extra dissipated into the air already, and it’s not sticky. But you could just spray
the adhesive on the heart and not have to worry about that at all. (fast-paced electronic music) It looks like I have a
little pucker going on here. See, this is a great reason why to do the straight stitch first is that you can help any
of these little puckers that are going to happen smooth out. And that one I got rid of by
just rubbing my finger over it. It just kind of smoothed everything out. Okay, so, I’m getting
down here to the point. I have gone one time around now. I’m going to trim off
my beginning threads, but I’m not actually going
to stop my upper thread. I’m just going to keep going. So, I head back to the right spot. I’m going to go over here
to where that pucker is and smooth it down a little bit more. It’s going to disappear
the next time around. And this time I’m going to
do kind of a big zigzag. It’s just the zigzag that my
machine automatically does, which happens to be a two in length and a three in width. So, now I’m going to head around this way. (fast-paced electronic music) So, this is really trapping that edge so that I’m not going to have to worry about the edge popping up. And I’m making sure I’m sewing just off the edge of the fabric so that edge is completely sealed and stuck down. Getting to these points can be a little confusing of what to do, so I always make sure my needle is as far this way as it can go
when it zigzags into a point. And then when I come out of it, it’s going to zig the other way, so I don’t have to worry
about it going too far inward. But you got to watch those zigzag corners. (fast-paced electronic music) Okay, I am ready to
start the satin stitch, and the satin stitch takes a
long time and goes really slow. If you don’t want a satin
stitch, feel free to stop here. I’m just going to keep going. When it comes to this part of
zigzag, called a satin stitch, you want your stitch to
be really close together. Really, really close together. That’s what makes it look like
satin because it’s so smooth. So, you want to play with
your machine’s settings and take it down probably farther than you think you need to. You can absolutely give this a try on a scrap piece of fabric to give you an idea of what you want. So, this is a satin stitch. And I’m actually, I’m going
to make it a little bit wider just to make sure it covers everything that I’ve already done. One of the keys to a satin
stitch is going slow, so don’t try to take this too fast. If you notice your knit over
here is kind of getting bunched just lift up your presser
foot and smooth it out. (fast-paced electronic music) I have a button on my machine that always stops the needle down. If you don’t, when you stop, make sure you use that
hand wheel to crank it down so that any lifting of the presser foot does not disturb where the stitch is. I should have probably
talked a little bit about what you want your tension to be. On my machine, I have it
set right about three, and that’s my setting for button hole. I had it set that way
because a button hole does something very similar. It does this satin stitch, and that’s why I chose that setting. If your machine has a button hole setting, that would be a great option
to use for satin stitch. Here, we can see. I’m really liking that. It looks like I’m not quite
getting all of the edge. I started to veer in a little bit. Oh well, I’ll be okay with that. But I can go in with my little scissors and give that a trim when
I’m done if I don’t like it. (fast-paced electronic music) So, we’re going to be coming
down to this part soon and there’s a number of
different ways to tackle it. I know that there are ways to make it look like a
perfectly mitered corner, but I’m just going to
go with the easy way, which is basically doing
exactly what I’ve already done which is just sewing
right into that corner and when I get there, making sure that my zigging and zagging is going the right directions. Then just head on out
the same way I came in. Okay, here we go. I’m going in, definitely
going down into it, about the same width as my satin stitch. Now my needle is on the
inside towards that, towards the heart, and now I’m going to turn it, make sure I’m lined up, and then I’m just going to
stitch my way out of that corner. (fast-paced electronic music) You may have noticed that the
shirt has some food on it. Well, I would generally
wash all of my projects before I sew them, but I really didn’t want
those holes to get any bigger. So, I’m actually sewing this
with food still stuck on it. But it’s going to go right
in the washing machine when I’m done with this project. (fast-paced electronic music) So, here I come, down to the point. So, now I am at the point with my needle. I’m going to pivot, and I’m going to sew back
over part that I started on just to make sure I’m not leaving some threads right out there. Okay, we’re all the way around. I’m going to just tie off. My machine does that automatically for me, but you can just take a couple
stitches forward and back. And now I’m going to pull
this out and cut off. You can see inside all of that lovely stitching. So, right here on the edge where I can see that I didn’t quite catch all of the knit, I can go in with my scissors, and I can carefully, carefully trim away a little bit of that fabric. You’ve got to be super careful
not to cut the shirt though. So, doing any of that sort of stuff, you got to be amazingly careful. And if you cut the shirt, what you can do is you can go
back and just make this wider and cover up any little holes
that you managed to put in it. But let’s not try to put more holes in it. After all, that’s why we’re
here in the first place, right? To fix the holes. Well, I am pretty happy with that. Let’s go back to the cutting table and take out all this interfacing. This beautiful heart is
now sewn on the shirt. Let’s take care of that
interfacing or stabilizer and make it a little bit
more comfortable to wear. I know I keep saying interfacing and stabilizer interchangeably. They’re not but, yet, they are. In so many ways,
interfacing and stabilizer can be the same thing. In general, though, stabilizer is removed and interfacing isn’t. So, let’s get to removing this stabilizer. Got a nice corner here, so I’m just going to give it a pull. If it doesn’t release easily, I’m pulling pretty hard already, we’re not going to pull. Because this shirt is
so lightweight and thin, I’m not going to pull at it super hard. I’m going to use my scissors. So, these happen to be applique scissors. They’re called duck
bill applique scissors. And you don’t have to
use these fancy scissors. I just really like them. (fast-paced electronic music) So, I have it roughly cut out around it. Now I’m going to cut everything
from the inside as well. (fast-paced electronic music) There we go, now it’s
tearing pretty easily. Nice, much better. Awesome. See, that was super quick. So, this little bit of stabilizer
that’s still in the seam, once I wash it, it’s going
to come out really easily. So, there is our big, beautiful heart, covering up those enormous holes. I still don’t know how she managed to put so many holes in this shirt. But she loves it, and I’m here to make sure
she keeps getting to wear it. Because we’ve taken that
stabilizer off the back, it means the whole
shirt is still stretchy, which is so wonderful. It means this shirt can be comfy, cozy, and get lots of wear still
because it’s comfortable. If you wanted to make an
applique out of a woven fabric or a non-stretchy fabric
on a stretchy fabric, you can absolutely do that. Just make sure that the
item that you’re patching has enough wiggle room. So, if it means all of the
stretchiness of the shirt and you put a patch on
it that’s not stretchy, that shirt’s going to become too tight. I know that the shirt
has enough wiggle room, so I guess I could’ve put a
heart on that was a woven fabric but I wanted to make sure
it still stretched with her. Oh, wait, we still got a
little spot here, right? That comes out with water. Here we go, I’m going
to make it disappear. There we go. Now it’s gone. Once it dries, you’ll no
longer even see the wet spot. Do your kids put a lot of
holes in their clothes? I want to hear about it. Tell me how you fix them. Thank you for joining The Fabric Ninja and have a wonderful day. (fast-paced electronic music)

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