Welcome to SewVeryEasy, my name is Laura. And I’ve come across a new product called Fabriflair and you can do some amazing things with it. Here are a few samples that the staff at Indygo Junction have made. They made these gorgeous little ornaments and they’re all made with this Fabriflair inside, so it’s sort of stiff like cardboard, but it’s still flexible. It gives you a lot of design opportunities, and there are so many different patterns. You can get patterns for these little hexagon-type balls, and you can make bowls instead of balls. You can get stars. Now these stars are dimensional. You can get different size stars, and you can take this and turn it into a tree topper. You can also get patterns for these big stars that would go on the wall. They’re so light because they’re made with this special stabilizer. You’re going to be able to hang them very, very easily. And you can make them in many, many different fabrics to go with your design. And you can make this dimensional star, all with the same product. The Fabriflair that I’m going to be using today you get in a package. Now this is perfect for pre-cuts because it’s 10″ by 10″. They’ve also added—because this is a fusible—a pressing sheet, which makes it really handy. The nice part about this is you buy your pattern, then you’re going to be able to use this pattern over and over again; you just need the stabilizer to go with it. In this particular package there is a free pattern and it’s to make this ornament. Now It doesn’t have to be just an ornament. You could do it as a decoration. If you like Victorian you could do this in velvets and satins. If you have sports teams you can put sports teams on it. Even little embroideries or pictures that have been fused onto fabric. There’s a lot of different possibilities that you can make with this and it doesn’t use barely any fabric at all. Think of all the scraps you can use. This free pattern is right inside. Indygo Junction has given me a free link to share with you so that you can get this free pattern. We’re going to make one of these ornaments, and I’m going to show you two different ways to make it: By hand and by machine. The pattern does have a template so I’ve traced this template out on template plastic. That way I’m going to be able to make more than one. You will need a second template for the fabric and it’s going to be 1″ bigger. So I have two templates made, one for my fabric and one for the stabilizer. So I’m just going to take this template and trace it six times and then cut them out. They’re very easy to cut with scissors. Now I have six of these shapes The shapes eventually will be fitting together in that center, and knowing that gives me a chance to fussy cut if I want to so I can have little pictures in the centers. Once I have the shapes cut out, I just need to cut the fabric out. You’ll need six larger pieces of fabric cut out in triangles. Now this is where the fun comes in. I have placed the measurement down the center of the triangle that I’m going to be using. That way I can use this and center any fabrics that I want fussy cut with a picture in the center. Today, I’m going to just use some cotton fabric. This is some fabric that I have left over from Paintbrush Studio. I’m going to do two of each of the fabrics to go with the triangles. The next is going to be fusing the stabilizer onto the triangles. Normally, we take that fusible side and we fuse it down, but in this case we’re going to work with it in the opposite way, so there’s no fusible on this side. It’s on this top side, and I’m going to be able to fuse this fabric right on top of the glue on the back. I am going to use one of my little travel irons just because it has a nice little plate and it’s going to be easy to handle. Take that edge and have the iron just go along that fabric. Now if you’re afraid of touching it, this is where that paper is going to come in handy. Do the one side—and you don’t have to worry about trimming anything off—and just fuse the next side on. And I’m just going to hold the iron there just for a second just to hold it down, then I can press it better later. Fold the next side. All of those edges are stuck on. You can iron right over that piece to secure it, and the special paper just comes right off so it doesn’t leave any fusible on your iron. You don’t even need to trim off those edges. This needs to be done to all six of your pieces. To put them together, regardless if you machine-stitch them or hand-stitch them, the construction is the same. I like to lay out what it’s going to look like first, so I’m going to have the three pieces for the top and the three pieces for the bottom. Now there’s nothing saying you cannot match up your pieces. So what would happen is the one side of the diamond would be all the same color instead of having the variations. You can even do them all the same color. The bottom and the top pieces are going to be sewn together first in this fashion. Let me show you how to stitch those together. The first thing I’m going to show you is with machine. Take two of your pieces and match them right sides together. You don’t have to worry about those ends yet. I’m going to use a zig-zag stitch to stitch these together, and I’m going to use about 3mm wide and about 3mm long. I want enough that it’s going to catch the fabric and then come off. I’m going to have a zig on the fabric and a zag off the fabric, so I’m going on, off, on, off, on, off… all the way down the one side. As you’re stitching, you can just take and move the little tail out of the way. So I’ve gone off and on all the way down, and I moved this out of the way. When you open it up you will see the zig-zag on the inside and it looks like little whip stitches all the way on the outside. When the one piece is on you’ll stitch the next one on in the same manner: Right sides facing, do that zig-zag on and off all the way up to the end. When this side is done you will have the three pieces joined together. This has been very easy to work with. My machine had no problem going through those two layers. Once the one sides done we need to repeat for the other side, and I’m going to show you how to do a whip stitch to sew these together. You can either use a double strand of thread or a single. I’m going to use a double; you’ll be able to see it better. I have a knot on one end. The same system’s going to apply. You need to match up the two edges. I’m going to take that knot and put it right in one of the corners. Go through one piece then go through the second. The next one I’m going to start on the bottom. Go through the one piece up through the second. And I’m going to just continue that as I go along. When I come to the end I’m just going to move the ears out of the way so I’m just stitching right along that one edge. The last stitch when I get up to the top I’m going put it from the bottom up through the top and pull, and then with that bottom loop put the thread through and tie a knot. I like to repeat that just to secure the knot. So on the inside you’re going to have that little whip stitch and when you open it up, depending on how much material you’ve caught in your stitching, you might have just some little lines running down. You can also do this whip stitch on the outside and this will give you a chance to add beads. To add the beads you’re going to sew with the pieces together so that the wrong sides are touching. Anchor your thread and take one stitch to secure it. Now with each whip stitch I can add a bead. I’m going to use this these tiny little pearl beads. I’m going to do the same thing: The first stitch is going to go on one side and right over to the next side, just catching a small amount of fabric on both edges. As I pull, that bead is going to be right in there. Then I’m going to put another bead on my needle before I take the next stitch. Just ignore that you have that bead on and do your next stitch. I’m going to continue the same thing: Putting a bead on, ignore that the bead is there, and do another stitch. I’m just going to keep the same pattern, starting on one side, coming through on the other. When I come to the end, pull a knot and repeat. Now when you open it up you have a row of beads down that edge. The ornament is going to need a hanging loop when it’s done. I like to add my hanging loop now. Just take a piece of ribbon, fold it in half and stitch it in-between one of those areas at the top. You’re only going to need a couple of stitches to hold that down. So I have this little loop sticking out of the top. The next is going to be sewing the top and the bottom together. Place right sides together and that edge there is where you’re going to stitch. You could do it on the sewing machine where you do the zig and the zag all the way around and just move the ends out of the way as you stitch. You can do your hand-stitching or if you want to bead it you’ll put wrong sides together, tuck those tails in, and then stitch. Flip this so it’s right side. Right now. It’s going to look like an inside-out bow. You’re going to be able to just flip that over because it’s very flexible. Now you have this nice diamond shape and only one more seam to stitch closed. You can take these little ends and tuck them in and do a whip stitch from one side all the way to the center and right down. When you get to the bottom, just tuck in those little tails. If you’d like to do handwork you could do all sorts of embroidery stitches down the spine instead of doing a whip stitch. You now have a finished ornament for your tree and it’s not breakable. I’ll put a link in the description to the free pattern and to the Fabriflair. There are a lot of great things that you can make with this stabilizer. You can make them quick and easy with the machine, or spend time and embellish them and make them very unique. A special thank-you to the staff at Indygo Junction for parting with their ornaments so that I could share them with you and as always Thank you for joining me today on SewVeryEasy. Feel free to subscribe and, as always, come on back. Let’s see what we’re sewing next time
in the sewing room. Bye for now!