Crochet Children’s Sweater

[music] And welcome back to the I’m your host Mikey, and in today’s tutorial, we’re going to explore this fabulous little sweater together. This is all the way from sizes One Years Old all the way to Eight Years Old. It could be for boys and girls; it doesn’t matter… you just have to change the color, if you’re wanting it to be very specific to a gender. Now, this pattern is exceptionally easy to get… that there’s a free pattern available in the “More Information” link of this video and I use “Baby Marble” here. This is James C. Brett “Baby Marble” to create the effects — the colors transitions that you see are in the yarn ball itself — no fancy camera tricks. This is just working up naturally. Now, this is a closed sweater, so that there’s no buttons on it, and when you turn it over on the other side, it’s like you see here. You can see that the other side is won… wonderful, as well. Let’s begin to explore this pattern together, and let’s get started now. So, in this pattern we have four components. We have the front panel which you see on the front, we have the back panel, underneath, and then we have the sleeves which are worked as one big unit. So, you have two sleeves, one back panel, and one front panel. Now, the back panel and the front panel are almost identical to each other… like almost.. and what I want to do for you today is that I’m going to show you how to do one panel because once you understand it, that the second panel is going to be very easy. So, I’m going to be showing you how to do the front panel. Now, the difference between the front and the back panel is there is a dip right here in the front section. Now, the back panel what’s going to happen is that we’re going to work all the way up through here and then we’re going to do a slight indentation in and we do this on the front and the back panel and then, for the back panel, we just continually grow all the way across. You see how it comes up like this. So, in the back you can see that it comes all the way to the top just like so… So on this tutorial today, I’m going to show you how to do the front panel, because I’m going to tell you that the certain point is that you’re no longer going to do the dip, you’re going to go back and forth to get to the top. It’s very, very easily done. And so, what we’re going to do is that I’m going to show you tricks on the assembly will do that today as well and that we’re going to do some trim work and this pattern really does not take that long. You’ll be very excited about it. So, let’s continue, and I’ll show you what I’m working on right now. So, here’s what a panel is going to look like. This is what this sweater is going to be today and I’ve already done the back panel. In the back panel, I’ve just gone all the way straight across the top. So, if you really look at it here, you can see that I come across and then I’ve done an indentation in on both sides and then gone straight up. And so, if you understand that concept, you can understand that this is a very… really easy way to go. So, in today’s tutorial, I’m just going to show you how to do the front panel, because that’s the one with the dip, because this seems very easy, if you’re just going all the way back and forth all the way to the top. Now, the question that you need to do is that you need to get a tape measure, so that you can start measuring, because there’s really no secret when it comes to the… um… rows, you have to figure it out through measurements, in order to make it work for you. Now, here’s what one of the sleeves look like, and I’ve done my homework, so I just have to do one sleeve with you on camera today, and essentially what it does is it looks like a pie shape almost… let’s see… it’s bigger at the top than it is the bottom. We start off on the bottom, and this is right where the wrist would be and then we just get slightly bigger as we go and what’s going to happen at the end is that we’re just going to fold it in half, like so, and do this, so, but you’re not going to do any of the sewing until we get everything done, because i’m going to show you the secrets to that. After that, we’re just going to apply a little bit of trim just like you see here and then also with this other panels that we apply the trims and everything, although, all the fancy-dancy stuff afterward, and of course, you can always do appliques, if you wish, as well. So, without further ado, let’s begin. I am using the James C. Brett “Chunky” today, and this is a really wonderful, so if you like this color combination, just look for James C. Brett “Chunky Marble” and this is just such a wonderful thing, so all the colors that you see are basically… are what… er what is in the yarn ball and letting the yarn do all the fancy stitch work for me today. When looking at the pattern, you will see that the directions are first “One Year”. OK? So, those are the sizes that I’m going to be working with today. Changes for the sizes in Two, Four, Six, and Eight Years are in the parentheses. So when you look at it here, and you see the one number that’s One Year and then everything in the parenthesis is the next size. So, the next one is Two Years Old, Four, Six, and Eight and so, we’re working along in the instructions that we see, with the Back, with a 6-1/2 mm crochet hook or Size K, it says to… a… um… Chain 36, but then you’ll see Chain 38, 40, 44, 46. So, if you understand that those are the sizes, so, this is One Year. You have Two, Four, Six and Eight… that totally makes sense when you’re looking at it from that perspective. What I would do, if I were you, if you’re not working on the One size, I’d go with a highlighter or pen and circle the numbers that you are working with, so that you never lose track of exactly where you are within this project. So let’s… uh.. begin again. So, 6-1/2 mm/Size K crochet hook. Let’s begin to grab our yarn. I’m going to leave a generous tail, so I can use the darning needle to sew it in afterwards, so that no tails are going to fall out. Create a slipknot, and as per the instructions, it says that I’m going to Chain 36. Remember that this one never counts as One. So, 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, please go all the way to 36, and when we come back, I’ll show you a little trick in order to make a really great edge. My 36 are now in play, and essentially, I have to single crochet 2nd chain from the hook, but can I tell you a little tip? In order to get a really perfect edge that you will not have any problems with, I recommend that you go from 1… 2… and then turn it over just like you see here, and what I want you to do is that there is a hump that is on the back… OK? And what I want you to do is just go into that instead. OK? And we’re going to single crochet
that. Once you do one, the rest of it is going to naturally turn over onto itself, so that the humps are exposed as you’re going all the way across. This adds a really element. So, you’re going to be crocheting on this edge, anyway, to do some trim work at the bottom, but why not have an edge that is absolutely perfect. So, it’s a great way to have a perfect edge and being able to be consistent at the same time. So just single crochet yourself all the way across regardless of what size you’re working with today. I’ve just single crocheted myself all the way across and now i’m just going to go back and forth, and if you look at the instructions that says that you just have to keep going back and forth ’til you get a certain measurement. So, it’s 5-1/2 inches, if you’re doing the the One Year o.. is old. and then 6, and 6-1/2, 7-1/2, and 9. So, basically, you just have to figure out which one that you’re working with. What I recommend is if you’re already done one use it as a template, so that even if you’re measuring tape is off by a little bit, you can just put this panel on top of this one and realize where the indentation is. What we’re doing is just simply going back and forth to get to the point where we’re going to start the indentation in. The sleeves fit into the slot, that’s why there’s an indentation. So, just please go back and forth and get them size that you need, and just look at the instructions on what height that you need, in order to make it work. If you’re on your second panel, just make sure that you just cross-compare to make sure that you’re not off by any particular rows. So pleased that.. just simply just turn your work, just like so, and so, now, you have the perfect edge into your… your work, just like so. So, you’re going to chain 1, first — to chain 1, like so — and you’re going to come into the same one. So, just the same stitch and just single crochet across and like so. So, please, just go… I’m doing a One Years Old, so, I’m going to keep doing this off camera, until I get this to be 5-1/2 inches and it really won’t take that long, so, I’ll see you back in just a moment. So, I now have the bottom part of the panel done, whether this is front and back–this is both the same on both sides. So, what we’re going to do, and this is for front and back, as well, is that we are just going to start off and I’ve already chained 1, and I shouldn’t have… So, what we’re going to do is that we’re just going to slip stitch the first two over. So, we’re just going to slip in our hook into the first stitch, pull through and through, and then the next stitch, through and through like that. So, you’re just the only coming in just a small little indent just like so. So the 2 is for the size that we’re working on… yours could be 2, 2, 2, 3, or 3 depending on which one you’re looking at in the parantheses. So, what we have here is that it says to chain 1 and then single crochet into the next one, and what you need to do is that you need to go all the way to the other side. So, … but not all the way to the other side… we want only… go to what it says in the parantheses — that either say 2’s or 3’s and essentially, I just have to a single crochet myself going all the way across and I want to stop, leaving 2 stitches untouched. And basically, because I slip stitched 2 over here, then when I’m not going all the way to the other side, it’s going to cause an indentation to happen on the other side as well. So, let’s meet back there in just a second and we’ll see ya… So, I’m still coming all the way across, and I just have to look and make sure that I leave 2 stitches untouched at the very end. So we have 1 and 2, just like so. So, what I want to do now is just simply turn in my work and if you’re working the back panel, all you have to just g… do now is just go back and forth just like you were in the bottom section, and the… the backing, what it says is that repeats this row until the total thing measures 9-1/2 inches that be doing once… a size One Year Old, and then the other sizes are in parentheses. So what your… you just need to do is just to chain 1 first, and then just single crochet going across. But, if you’re work… so we’re going to start off with the front panel, or sorry, the back panel, if we’re doing this sweater and so what that is basically, the basis for measuring when it comes to doing this. So, what I want to do is I want to come back in just a second, and I’m going to teach you how to do the front panel, because the front panel, we’re still doing this, but we’re going to stop a little earlier to do some fancy stitch work, in order to create the neck-line in the front of the sweater. Now, the front panel of the sweater is very similar to what we’re doing right now. You’re going to need a tape measure, just like so. So, what you’re going to be doing is that we are following along the pattern as you are in the back, but we have to look for, as per the instructions, is that we have to then continue to work this up so we made the “intentations” in and we’re going to work it up. And if you look at the instructions, it says “Work the same as the back until the piece measures 7-1/2 inches,” if you’re doing the One of the … uh.. One Years Old. There’s other sizes there for the others. So, all I want to do is that I want to use 7-1/2. So, I’m going to just lay it down on my work, and I’m simply going to do back and forth on this until that I get to the point that it’s at the same height. So, that’s where the neck is going to start, once we’re doing out so we just have to continue to do that. So, go back and forth until you get to the height that your need — in my case it will be 7-1/2 and then we’re going to start doing the neck… uh… work at that point and it’s a lot of fun, too. When looking at my original sample right here and what we have here is that what’s going to happen is that one shoulder that we’re about to start now. So I’ve got my 7-1/2 inch done here. So, my indentation is done, I’m ready to start the neck. What’s going to happen is that we’re going to work and, basically, do one shoulder first. Do you have to see how the shoulder is a different color on the side? That’s because the yarn never went all the way across — it stopped. So, when bap.. bup… bup… bup… boom… got smaller and then what we’re going to do in the second part is that we’re going to pick up and we’re just leaving empty space in the middle and then we’re picking up and working our way on this end so we just have to make sure that when we are working on this project is that we
capture that we capture the stitches in the same point . So for example we are going
to go and we’re going to start and we’re going to bump bump bump bump bump ok and you just don’t start on this side
and continue to go this way because what happens is that this stitch are you see
how it looks consistent if you start on this side what’s going to happen is that
you’re going to see a stitch line looking backwards and it’s going to be
very obvious so you when you start you literally have
to have the shoulder gun and you just skip over the middle section and start
on the side and get ourselves smaller therefore you don’t see any
inconsistencies when it comes to working on any stitch work in order to make it
look weird. so let’s begin and we have our seven and
a half inches done and you can see that the panel looks just like so and so now
we’re going to start on doing the first shoulder. So let’s begin that now. So now that our
sizing is done we are just going to simply chain one and, as for the
instructions, it says to chain one single crochet our turn which is we’ve already done the turn and
it says two single crochet in the first 10 there’s other dimensions for four
other sizes as well so you might have to 10 11 12 13 or 14 so this is 1 this is 2,
3, 4, & 5 & 6 and seven and eight nine and ten. So we’re going to do that and
essentially we have to then go across and turn the work. So let’s turn our work.
So we’re no longer going to go all the way across, we’re just going to stop and
we are going to do a decrease row. So what we have to do first is chain one
and then it says to skip the first single crochet and single crochet into
each stitch or crush. So normally we would come into this
first one down right here we’re going to skip it and just single
crochet the rest going across and this is going to create a roundish neck
formation, as we go around. So if you’re doing the back panel you don’t have to
do any of this work and make sure you go right to the end. So it says row number three, okay we’re
just going to turn our work is that we’re going to chain one and single
crochet in into each across. Now you don’t want to decrease on this side
because that’s the side that is meeting up with the sleep so you’re only
decreasing when ever you’re in the neck line area which is in the center of the
panel. ok, and we want to make sure that when we
go across is that we did reach over for the chaining one, that is not a stitch,
here it’s only this last one. So we’ve got to just make sure we look for that,
ok, so make sure you don’t accidentally put that one in the chain. And let’s turn
our work again, and it says repeat the last two rows two more times. So to repeat the last two
rows is that we’re going to chain one and skip over the first one, go to the
second. Single crochet all the way across ok, turn our work, so you’re getting
smaller and smaller and narrower and narrower and you can see that they’re
starting to be a v-shape and we are just going to chain one single crochet across.
So this is obviously the top of the shoulder area that were starting to hit. We’re single crocheting all the way across.
We’ve got to be mindful on that very last stitch that we are not getting into that
chain one first, okay. And so, then this is the last time we’re
going to repeat, so chain one, skip the first one, go to the second over and
single crochet the rest. So you see the color is transitioning as
we’ve been working up so that means that the other shoulder will be a slightly
different color and that’s fine. It’s part of being artistic, right? And so
we have to chain one for one more time like so. And then we just simply single
crochet into each, and then we fasten off. And that will conclude that first
shoulder, just like so. And leave a generous tail so that you can use it to
sew it…um.. so you can actually use it sew it when you come to do the rest of it. So,
this is where we’re going to stop and you can see that the neck on this side has
been a nice “V” shape so let’s begin to do the other side next. So, we’re about to start the second
shoulder and basically it says to skip over 11 stitches here and then pick up
and then we’re going to do the knot, the 10 stitches as we’ve done over here. Now
that 10 could be different depending on what side you’re working on, but let me give you a tip here. If, for
example, something happened and you’re off by one or two stitches, why have two different sizes of
shoulders when, in actual fact, you can just pay attention to the end of this
only. So, you know that there’s 10 over here. What i would do, is instead of counting
across 11 or whatever numbers that is asking to come across, count backwards so I know I need 10 so 1,
2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10. That’s where i’m going to go, right there.
So this will allow you to always keep your your your center in balance so you’re just going to join your yarn, chain one and single crochet all the way to the edge, just like so. And, so this’ll really
it will allow you to be able to play with the concept without having to screw
up the neckline. There’s nothing worse than you realizing
you’re getting too far and realizing that the that both shoulders are really
not the same size and it’s something that you really can’t repair. So if you
can think about it from terms of of, you know, reverse psychology, you can get the shoulders to be perfect
every time. So let’s begin, we’re going to do the same thing, so we’re just turning
our work. we’re chaining one and then single
crochet all the way across this shoulder. So we are essentially doing what we did
on the other side, the only difference is that where we started was slightly
different. So, our flat edge is on the other side and so, that’s why you don’t
see that’s why you don’t see the instructions repeat, you know, shoulder one because you’re
working on the other side. So let’s, uh, turn our work now, and we are going to do
exactly what we did on the other side. We’re going to chain one, skip the first
stitch, go to the second over and then single crochet yourself all the
way across. So, in actual fact, you’re only single or you’re only decreasing every
other one. Turn your work, ok, chain 1 and single
crochet all the way across. If you can always keep an eye on where
your sleeve is, you can always get it off to right, a good start. So it’s whenever you’re starting from
the other side so remember we chained one over here so,
therefore, this single crochet where we’re going all the way across is going
to stop on the first single crochet knot in this chain one area. Let’s turn our work. ok, we’re going to
repeat again the rows, so chain one, skip the first one, go to
the second. ok, just single crochet yourself all the
way across, as per as what it says, so and then single crochet yourself again
going across. When you come back to this, remember that
you are, you did the chain one to do that decrease so don’t go all the way,
just to the first one, like so and voila, you should be able to take these two and
be able to compare to each other. In actual fact, I think that I’m off by one
at this point, so on the final one I’m just going to chain one and single crochet
yourself into there. So, it’s just a single crochet yourself all the way across
and then save a generous tail. Do make sure you compare the two shoulders to
make sure that they’re identical in the width, as well as the height or you’ll be
very upset about it when it comes to assembly. And so, basically, I’m going to
leave a generous tail at this moment and I’m going to put that aside. If your working
in the front or the back panel next you just have to continue to do that and
you can just follow this. So, we’re going to start the sleeves next. Please leave your panels and everything
to the side. We’re going to do all the other fancy stitch work first before we
get to the assembly. So that’s what we have at this point. So
now we’re going to begin to do the sleeves and we’re going to start off
doing the bottom first and this is right where the wrist is and we’re going to
work our way up and we’re getting a light slightly bigger as we go across.
And so, you once you get your first sleeve done, then you want to cross compare it to
your second. So leaving a generous tail at the
beginning, ok we can use that sew in later, it says with the same size hook we’re
going to be able to chain a certain amount so, mine is 21, yours could be 21, 21, 24, 24, or 27 depending
on the size you want to work on. So, one, two, three, four, and five and go
all the way to the number that you need. In my case, it will be 21, and i’ll see
you back in just a moment. Now, what we’re going to do is, we have
that done, we’re just going to go to second chain from the hook. Again, I
recommend turning it around and getting the back hump of that and not just go in any any
strings. It’ll make the edging a lot more nicer
you are going to be applying trim to the bottom of this sleeve so you’re going to want the trip to be
able to attach beautifully. So, we’re just going to single crochet
yourself all the way across the row number one. Ok in row number 2, it’s very easy
we’re just going to chain one and then single yourself all the way across a
single crochet, and this one is a really easy one. And the next row three, you
will notice that in the instructions that the that number of increased row
number three is not bolded so you don’t realize that it may be a secondary line
to work with, so it looks like it’s a running instruction because it’s not
been bolded, so just keep an eye on for that and it would just make it easier
for you to follow. so row number two single crochet all the way across. Increase row number three is really easy
is that what we’re going to do is we’re going to apply extra stitches on the
front on the start and the back of the line. So we’re going to chain one and we’re
going to put two single crochet into this first stitch, like this and then
we’re going to single ourselves all the way across. So on the very last stitch of this row
we need to put two single crochets on the outside in order to make it sure that
it’s growing properly, inconsistency consistently on both sides of the row. So when we get to the other side, let’s
just add two more stitches. so I’m on my very last stitch now and i’m just going
to add in two stitches just like so. So very simple. So it says rows number 4 to 10. Rows 4 all the way to 10 now are just chain 1 and single crochet yourself
going all the way across. And please do that so rows number 4 – 10 you’re going to do that and when we come
back we’ll have that done and we’ll do row number 11 and there is a repeat
happening on here but we’ll cover that in just a moment. so please do rows 4
to 10 now. ok, rows number four to ten are now done
and i’m simply going to start off with the row number 11. We’re just going to
chain up one and then two single crochets in the very beginning and then
single crochet all the way across except for the last one, we’re going to put in
two single crochets. So what I need you to do for the remainder of this sleeve but
not the complete sleeve is that I need you to repeat the rows 4 to 11 two more times and so basically when we
meet back i’m going to have that all done. And a row number 11, do not forget,
is that adding of two stitches at the beginning and at the end of the row in order to make it
consistent. so when we come back we’ll have that done. And a suit if you’re
working on all sizes even rows number 4 to 11 repeating of two more times it does actually count, as well, and then
after that we need just to put a few more extra rows just to make the length
work. And then we’ll be working on that from that point. So while I’ve chatted
with you to give you some advice I’m already on the coming to the end of the last one. We’re just going to add two and that’ll complete off around the row 11 so
please repeat 4 to 11 two more times. So I’ve now just finished
rows 4 to 11 two more times, so this is what the entire sleeve looks like at
this point. So now you just have to look at the
instructions and determine how long you need this length to be. So for the
one-year-old size, it’s only seven and a half inches and in actual fact, it just
finished rows 4 to 11 and it is actually seven
and a half inches on its own, so I don’t want to continue this any further and i just want to just trim off
leaving a very generous tail so i can use it to sew in afterward. just like so, and, voila, I will do that. So
for the next sleeve, you just have to repeat the same instructions. Both
sleeves are identical. And now when we come back I’m going to show you how to
do some of the assembly or all of the assembly for this particular idea. Also what you what will want to do
before you go any further you will want to cross reference your to sleeves
together to make sure that they are the same size because if they’re not it’s going to be very obvious in the
next part if you’re one sleeve is bigger than the other. So let’s begin to do the assembly next.
So the next step we wanted you to put things together is that we want to put
the sides so that are opposite to each other. If you have one side that looks a little
bit different than the other and you prefer to be on the outside what we’re going to do is that we’re
going to just come along and just sew this section here together and then
start a new one and sew this section together and then this will essentially
be the inside of the sweater. So, for example, you if you like this side, they
should both be identical but if you like this side better, then what you want to
do is that you want to turn it over so that it’s on the outside or on the
other side so that it doesn’t become the inside of this sweater. So right now, I just want you to just to
do a whip stitch and just sew along here and here and when we come back we’re
going to then do the sleeves on either side. So all I’m
going to do is that these long tails that I asked you to leave at the very
end of the project is that I want to get a darning needle and that darning needle
is what we’re going to use to whip stitch it together, like so. So
essentially what you have to just do is just line up the two edges together just
like this and just come on the opposite side and come through like this. And I’m
using very similar colors so that you don’t really see it. So we’re just going
to continue just to kind of circle around and just work our way to the edge,
just like so. And I want you to, this is how you sew the entire thing, so this is
how I would want you to do all the sewing from this part forward, so I don’t
need to show you how to do that at this point. So just continue to sew across and
then come in to cross and then do the other side and when we come back after
this point we’re going to show you how to do the sleeves because the sleeves
are going to be very easy. Now you’re thinking to yourself, well why
don’t we sew down the side of the sweater, we’re not ready to do that yet we need to attach the sleeves first. So let’s see you back in just a moment. So at the end, what you want to do is
just to fasten off. You just want to make sure you’re just
taking your time and then you just want to slide up underneath the stitches like so
and go back and forth three times in order to really hide that loose end in.
And, therefore, if you go back three of three times like so it will never come
out because that’s impossible for the sweater to, to move in three directions in
order to create a loose tail from falling out. So that’s how you would do that. so now
that our seams are together right here what we need to do is we need to attach
our sleeves and the sleeves will have a natural indentation just like we did
when we were doing the panels. So this happens to fit right into the
position that means that are engaging is right and what we need to do then is
just sew along this edge here and here and coming out so this whole piece will
be attached here at this point. And please do both sleeves and again do not
go any further than that and get both sleeves. So basically what’s going to
happen is, by the time we’re done this particular step is that you have what
appears to be a whole flat sweater but actually not completely assembled yet. So let’s um
continue to do that. Next using the same stitch, whip stitches and you can see
this is coming along really nicely. So now that my sleeves are in place the
seam lines are all up so this is up these are up and up. So all I want you to
do is that I just want you to pick up to the front and just do so that it’s
folded. So here is your sweater coming up and so the seam lines are on the
outside here and what we want to do then, the next part is that we want to join
with the new yarn and come down starting at the sleeve coming all the
way down to the bottom like so, and then again another one on this side. starting on the edge working our way
down and then what we’re going to do that that point was that we are going to
turn this so that it’s going to we’re going to fold the inside right so basically you’re looking at the good
side of this water so that we can do the trim work on the neck the sleeves and
the base. So now, turn the sweater so it’s inside
right so basically the seams are now on the inside and this is exactly what
you’ll see. but now it’s time to add the basically
the trim work in order to really give this a final kick at the end. Now you’ll have a neck hole, you’ll have
sleeves as well as you have a base and, essentially, we’re going to do the exact
same on all of the pieces. So what I’m going to be using is Red
Heart with love here and it’s a soft yarn, this is really soft, so I want to
make sure I’m complimenting the yarn. I’m going to use a size H or size 5
millimeter crochet hook because you need a smaller one in order to make it really
nicely and nicely done, I guess. A nice tight finish. So basically, I’m going to show you how
to do one edge, basically either one, and then you can apply the same concept to
the others. And then we come back I’m going to show you that next. I’m
going to start off with the neck area and I want to join the white here in a
seam so it’s on the very top of the shoulder.If you were doing the base, then
you’ll want to join it at the seam of the of the base on the side or even if
this is the sleeve you’ll want to join it with the sleeve
seam as well. So we’re going to just join it in and essentially what’s happening
here, because you are going to be using single crochet throughout, when you’re
coming down the edges basically every row equals 1 single
crochet, so you just have to follow the rows until you get to the basic stitches
again where you can just pick up and go. So I’m
just going to leave an extra long tail so I can sew that in afterward. no worse than that we’re looking at the job with their tails hanging out You’ll be lucky if they’re not wearing
this water inside out to begin with. So we’re just going to join it, like so, I
just did a slipknot, and i’m just going to gently pull through and I want to
make sure I take my time in this process. This is a really critical part because
the edging is what is going to make or break your sweater in order for being uber cute. So we’re
just going to pull things through, I’m just going to realign my hook and get
everything set. So we’re going to chain one first okay, and then just the straggler I’m
going to leave it down on top line so come into the very same stitch that you
just did everything in, like to join, and just put in another single crochet in
and then basically every stitch around the neck all the way is going to have a
single crochet. So this here is in the end of a row so the next one is the end of the next
row. That’s the advantage of single crochet. It seems to be a great thing. So, we are using a smaller hook so you’ll notice that it’s going to pull
it to be a little bit tighter and that’s exactly what the designer is asking you
to do. So just like so so we’re going to come down the front of the neck line
there and you just sometimes you just have to make the stitches fit in evenly
in order to make it work, as well. Sometimes you just have to play with it,
you’re the crocheter you can decide what’s good for you. And then once you’re down you can just
simply just blaze along the top. So for all of the trim work, all you need
to do is go around each one 4 times. So essentially, the first one is to
establish the stitches into the the front of the of the sweater or to the to
the good side and then basically the other three revolutions are following
exactly what you’ve just put in right. You’re doing it right now so when
we come back I’ll show you have a to slip stitch and join its then you can
start another round and apply these same concepts to everything that you’re doing
for all the trim. When you get all the way back around make sure you get into
every one and then this is the last one and then we’re just going to just join
it with a slip stitch, chain one, and then just start again of just single crochet
around. So please make sure that you have four revolutions and then you just want
to just fasten off the ends and weave it in and make it look fabulous and then
repeat the same concept for all of the edges including the bottom and the end
of the sleeves. When we come back I’ll have everything done. You can see and check on my work. And
there you have it, these are my two finished sweaters. This is what we are
working on the tutorial today, James C Brett Chunky Marble regular and then this
is the James C Brett Baby Marble. You can see either one is a winner and this
has been a really fabulous idea. So until next time, I’m Mikey on behalf
of Stay tuned for more information and free ideas, of
course, in

69 thoughts on “Crochet Children’s Sweater

  • It looks lovely, but I am wondering?  I've made children's clothes, including sweaters and dresses, etc.  My thought was the neck.  Babies often have big heads, too heavy to hold.  will the neck be wide enough, to get over their heads without a struggle???  or maybe had a snap, button or something similar??  I do love it though….

  • I love these two little sweaters! You made it seem  easy to do, thanks for another great tutorial Mikey. 

  • Can we use baby soft 3ply yarn or 4 ply red heart yarn? i am not sure what kind of yarn to use, a lilttle help and info pls size yarn and hook pls pat says K but then i see J too unsure Help pls and ty, 

  • wow I downloaded this months ago , the one with the crown, and thought Thats nice but yours is awesomw What a difference wool can make to a pattern 

  • Hi, Mikey. Just love all of your videos, and I LOVE the way you explain things. You made filet crochet make sense. Keep up the amazing work.

  • may I please request the size yarn for this project. im wanting to make a very large number of them for my nephews and son and aswell as gifts to pregnant frjends and family

  • MIkey I not sure if you get around to reading this but I was wondering If you could do a crochet baby newborn onsie please! I have taught myself to crochet from your videos and still find it really challenging reading patterns and would love to make a onsie !   Thanks for your videos x

  • Thank you! . You are amazing and you were the first person to teach me how to crochet and I want to thank you so much.

  • Thank you ,awesome video this is my very first sweater because of you and your videos the possibulties are endless

  • The instructions on your website show DC and you have shown the tutorial in sc. Are the measurements the same?

  • YOU ARE FAB MIKEY  LOVE ALL YOUR VIDEOS I have learned so much from you. Pity you don't live in UK . You are a Great Teacher x

  • Hi..i could only get one ball of multi coloured yarn which is 251yds which i want to use for the sweater for 1 yr old.. will that be enough for the body ???

    for sleeves i would like to use plain white. please let me know. 

  • Thanks for all your tutorials I really like this sweater now I can make it for all my nieces and nephew ! Also I am wondering since you explain the tutorials so well Mikey can you please do this huggable baby jacket from redheart for me because it is easier for me to follow you instead of a Pattern? Thanks the pattern number is Wr1967

  • Can I use your pattern I order to make a sweater for my husband. Can you please let me know. Thank you in advance.

  • Great sweater! I was wondering – what sort of modifications would I make if all I wanted was a vest, i.e. this pattern minus the sleeves? Thanks! 

  • Mikey if anyone can work magic I know you can, I want to crochet a sweater for my husband, don't have a pattern or know how to start, the number of stitches or to do the arms, I know how to crochet, and know the basics, I've made a few for myself. Please help, Thanks

  • I so lve ur so very ezey jumper im going to make this one for my 1st grandson in realy soft grey @ cream bands all rounds to match thank u il be using this great patryn for all of my jumpers now happy crocheting

  • Want to thank you for this tutorial. The sleeves bit was great. I did my first sweater using this tutorial for my little boy.

  • Hi I tried to Download the written pattern but was unable to. Really want to try out this sweater

  • Having trouble getting the written pattern for the Incredible baby sweater. Every time I try to download it I get the Crochet baby pull over. Please let me know how to get the written pattern Micky😢 I'm trying to get one done by the time school starts up again.Thanks😉☺️

  • I went to your link for the free pattern and all that comes up is the girls baby sweater pull over pattern. How can I get the pattern?

  • I think this is the same pattern here:

    Just change the colours as appropriate as the 'crown' is an appliqué that is made separately. Hope this helps

  • I really love the sweater … but I still unable to print off the pattern.  Can you put a pattern out there for toddler size 8?

  • Hi, is there a reason the pattern is written with increases on the sleeves, instead of decreases (started on the wrist end)? This is my first sweater, and I am using different yarn (Drops Karisma, size 4 hook, as Lion brand isn't available in Norway), so my stitches are mostly going by measurements. I decided to begin the sleeves from the wide end first and make decreases after a bit. I am also unsure of how long I need to make the sleeve before I start the decrease stitches. Any advise? Thank you for the video!

  • hi, how doi make an adule male sweater using this video of yours or would you happen to have one specificcally for adults? 😄

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  • I dont have varigated yarn i have to yarns mixed would i be able to use that to make this sweater and also i want to make it for a new born what should i do

  • I'm working on the shoulder part where it says repeat last 2 rows 2 more times then it says 7 ( 8,9,10,11) I am doing a 8 year old. I am confused how many repeats I should be doing. Can someone help me?

  • Mikey your patterns are always so clear and cute. I have made several of your baby sweaters and hat patterns for donation. I crochet for my church and want something that I can easily understand so I don't have to spend all day figuring things out. Your videos and patterns fit the bill. Thanks for what you do.

  • Hi, I have a doubt. I use winter yarn for this sweater. The size of the sweater becomes very big than the normal yarn.. What will be the measurement for winter yarn which is fur type of material

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