Sara: If I want to do satin stitch around
my heart, along a raw edge, we’re going to start with stitch number four. Instead of
foot J switch over to foot letter N, that has a nice cutout underneath, here I’ll show
you. It allows for satin stitches to really form out the backside.
Some of your decorative stitches that are really heavy are going to call for this foot,
but the machine doesn’t know that you’re going to manipulate this particular zig-zag stitch
to be so close together. It’s just going to ask for the regular foot J instead.
Take the settings as they start. What we’re going to do is we’re going to reduce the stitch
length. While I’m sewing I’m going to come up here and minus it. It’s going to start
at 1.4, and I’m going to just keep touching it. We’re going to go below one, .9, .8. What
I’m watching for is that the stitches get so close together that they begin to be a
satin stitch. Now I want them to be close enough that they
don’t pile up. I’m really seeing where that break point is. It’s always based on how thick
your thread is. Depending on if you have much thinner thread you’ll be a little bit less,
but as long as you’re going forward I think this is where … Oh, it’s trying, that’s
.2. We’ll take a look and see which setting we actually like the best here, and then we
can move over to our heart. You can actually get this. See how … So
many people stop like right about here and they’re like, “Oh that’s fine.” I’m like,
“Oh but it could be so much prettier.” Come on down here and really get a nice closed
up zig-zag. Now you could set and change the width if
you want, and make the width actually change and get it all right where you want it to
be. If we can adjust the width, we can just go ahead and make it wider. We go all the
way up to seven, and of course if we go down … Here I’ll just run it down. We get a nice
taper down to a straight stitch. All right, so you can find what setting is
going to look best. When we come over here we want the majority of the satin stitch to
be on the fabric, we just a little jump of the needle coming off of the edge of the fabric.
Let’s set it for 3.5 for the stitch width. Yes, that’s going to look good. Yup, and then
I’ve got a .3. Now I’ve changed from just two layers of fabric
to now fabric and batting. That could make a little difference since I did not test on
the actual layers that the final stitching will be on. Always try to plan on a little
test area, but I will show you what this is going to look like. It will really look pretty
here. A little practice will get you the perfect
satin stitch around any shape you want to appliqué. Now here’s a quick question for
you. Since we used this appliqué shape in the blanket stitch video, of these two edges,
the satin stitch one is going to look the best the longest because there’s no raw edge.
That raw edge is completely covered. Technically this raw edge, it could come up
after a few washings and start to look a little rayed out here. Keep in mind how this item’s
going to be used if you’re going to just do a raw edge fuse down or/and how the stitching
is going to be placed.